Primary (Drive) Clutch Removal

[PolarisRich]

Primary (Drive) Clutch Removal
1. Spray a light coating of spray lubricant on the clutch puller before you install puller.

2. Remove the primary clutch bolt and thread clutch puller in by hand. DO NOT use air impact on puller, it can cause thread damage. If puller does not thread in by hand DO NOT force puller in. Remove puller and inspect clutch and look for any obstructions.

3. Prevent the clutch from rotating by using a factory tool or a small bar. Make sure the tool will not cause damage when force is applied.

4. Using a hand tool, not air, tighten puller until clutch pops off the crankshaft. If the clutch doesn't come off easily, lightly tap on the end of the puller with a wrench or smaller hammer. DO NOT use extreme force. Contact your dealer if the clutch does not come off engine using reasonable torque.

5. Once clutch is off, unthread the puller and service clutch.

6. To install the primary clutch back on the machine, place the clutch on the crankshaft, thread the bolt in by hand and tighten the bolt to the manufacturer's recommendations.

7. Manufactures clutch belt torque specs:

Polaris Snowmobile/ATV PCP-1 45-47 ft/lbs.
Polaris Snowmobile PCP-7, PCP-8, PCP-9 47-50 ft/lbs.
Arctic Cat Snowmobiles PCP-2, PCP-5 50-55 ft/lbs.
Ski-Doo Snowmobiles PCP-3, PCP-4 66-74 ft/lbs.
Yamaha Snowmobiles PCP-6 1st torque to 80 ft/lbs and then take out and re-torque to 41 ft/lbs.

[bulldog_shotgun]

4.5

if clutch doesn't come off, unthread puller take grease gun and fill hole in clutch with several pumps of grease reinstall puller and try again. (the hydraulic pressure of the grease helps remove clutches) i've also heard of tipping the sled on its right side and filling hole with oil, seems like it would make a mess to me.



btw side loading the crank bearings by smacking the end of the puller with a hammer is harder on the crank than using an impact on the puller. i guarantee most shops you go in will use an impact to remove the clutch.

[Powersledder]

errr, is a 5' pry bar considered excessive torque? Cause thats what it took to get the clutch off my 700 engine

[indyultra]

Primary (Drive) Clutch Removal

3. Prevent the clutch from rotating by using a factory tool or a small bar. Make sure the tool will not cause damage when force is applied.



nice write up! for this one i like to use an old belt and wrap it around the clutch so the belt folds over it's self. you will be able to push on the wrench and pull on the belt at the same time, just make sure the belt is holding before you really get into it or the belt will slip and you WILL smack your knuckles on some thing!

[Ibreakstuff]

Why take the chance? Just do it this way:

http://www.slednutz.com/showthread.php?t=147

[the_hog]

I always use air when pulling a clutch.

[westman995]

I need some help getting my clutch off my 96 polaris 440.. I have the clutch puller (bolt looking thing) I take the bolt out of the primary along with the washer or busing or whatever it is. But there are some bushings or something also inside before i can put the clutch puller in? I have the clymer manual or whatever but i dont understand. What is the air impact for? I think we have one around.. Any help would be great..

[Ghostrider]

I always use air when pulling a clutch.

so do I?

[Ibreakstuff]

I personally have never needed air to get a clutch off, and I've had some bad ones.. but I'm sure there's been worse (like you guys)...

When you take the bolt out, there will be a bushing at the end, as well as a long aluminum cylinder that needs to come out. After you get that cylinder out you'll see the threads that you thread the puller into. If it doesn't come off, use a grease gun to fill the cavity with grease and crank it back in

PPFFFFFFTTT You already got it off, I just found out in the chatroom.