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-   -   Sled is running like crap. (http://www.slednutz.com/showthread.php?t=5256)

Madcow 12-07-2010 06:50 AM

are you vent lines from the carbs hooked up to the air box?

we know its ignition for the most part, you changed the timing by unplugging the tps and the engine changed. now we just need to find what part.

i have some apointments this morning but will be back with some specs after lunch.

Madcow 12-07-2010 11:40 AM

det sensor, try a new one and see what happens.

Rubi 12-07-2010 05:53 PM

Swapped CDI, no progress.

Madcow 12-07-2010 08:37 PM

doh!

Rubi 12-08-2010 09:09 PM

Hey Madcow, if I want to check the resistance on my stator wires, can I just take readings off the wiring harness where it goes into the CDI? It's gonna be tough to get at the wires down low where they come out of the stator.

Madcow 12-09-2010 07:15 AM

no, they need to be unplugged and you check them at the white plug in and black plug in.

Rubi 12-09-2010 12:02 PM

Well, stator testing is going to commence shortly. I already got an odd reading out of my ignition coil, so I don't know if I trust my test procedure, but we'll see what happens.

Madcow, how much does a flywheel puller that would work for my sled cost, and where does a fella get one? Do you know if Riley has one? Maybe he would bring it up to the cabin this weekend and let me borrow it if he did?

Ibreakstuff 12-09-2010 12:04 PM

"Rent" a steering wheel puller from an auto parts store. I use one on all my 2 strokes.

Rubi 12-09-2010 12:09 PM

Buying the right tool is cheaper than breaking the flywheel, so are you sure this steering wheel puller is appropriate? Also, I can rent tools from O'Reilly, but I don't know if I believe in "renting."

Ibreakstuff 12-09-2010 12:13 PM

When you "rent" you are actually buying the tool. I just don't return them - but you can and get every penny back.

I can take a pic of the correct one tonight - maybe even get the part # off it. I stand corrected, it's a harmonic balancer puller. My bad.

It looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Tool-.../dp/B000OUW77A

or this: http://www.google.com/products/catal...0CG8Q8gIwAjgU#

Rubi 12-09-2010 12:16 PM

OK, that looks like it might safely do the trick. I thought it might be one of those pullers with the three hooks on them. Those break the magnets off.

Gotmud 12-09-2010 12:17 PM

Not all harmonic balancer pullers will work on a flywheel though Rubi. I tried one on the RXL and ended up borrowing one because my harmonic balancer puller wouldn't fit inside the case.

Edit: I tried a puller like the first link IBS posted, don't waste your money on one.

Rubi 12-09-2010 12:19 PM

What do you mean, "the case?" Don't you just pull off the recoil housing, and the flywheel is right there, and the stator is behind that?

Ibreakstuff 12-09-2010 12:22 PM

Twins and triples are different. The twins have an extra housing, the triples do not. The stator is set farther back. Not sure why he didn't just use longer bolts?

Rubi, the one from O'reilly's (formerly Murrays) or Autozone in the red case is the one I have and I have used it on dozens of waverunners, jetskis, and snowmobiles. From 1981 until 2002 engines without a hiccup.

Gotmud 12-09-2010 12:23 PM

Yes but the puller itself wouldn't get close enough to the flywheel to use the threads. I even went and bought more metric bolts different sizes and it kept breaking and bending them. I ended up throwing that pos out and bought a nice puller set like the second link, it also proved worthless. At that point I had to borrow an actual polaris flywheel puller, popped off like it was loose.


Edit: IBS beat me to the last post, I've never attempted a twin engine flywheel so I'm unsure of the exact differences between the two.

Rubi 12-09-2010 12:25 PM

Well, it's time to do the resistance tests and see where that leads me. I'll check back in later with no conclusive answers yet again.

ZLZEBUB 12-09-2010 12:46 PM

i have a puller that i fabricated for a KAW STANDUP JETSKI that might work....you want i should measure it up and give ya dimensions? OLAF or someone can bring it up if you want to use it....let me know....it might fit

ZLZEBUB 12-09-2010 12:51 PM

one thing thats really disconcerning is the fact that it sounds like a butter knife stuck in a disposal.....or a blender with nails in it.....or......i digress

PS.....you did check the clutch for worn rollers and helix and or pins....it will cause the same effect and sound just like a couple o bearings in a coffee grinder....o wait.....thats usually the factory sound on a YAMAMAHAMA.....DOH....clinkity, clanckity, chang, chang

OCR 12-09-2010 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZLZEBUB (Post 107979)
....o wait.....thats usually the factory sound on a YAMAMAHAMA.....DOH....clinkity, clanckity, chang, chang

That should have been, "Chink, Chink!" :poosy:

Rubi 12-09-2010 01:25 PM

Z, there's no loose metal or grinding sounds. It's just simple backfiring and rough running.

Here's the results of impedance testing:


Factory settings / Measured Results

Stator Wires

Gr to Bl/Red - 15 ohm / 14.6 ohm
Gr to Ground - open / open
Gr to Red - 15 ohm / 14.6 ohm
Wh to Wh/Red - 185 ohm / 175.2 ohm
Y to Brown - .15 ohm / Inconclusive(mostly read 00.0, but sometimes 0.1

Ignition Coil
Black to White - .3 ohm / 00.0
Plug to Plug - 15 Kohm / 14.7Kohm
Bl. to Seconday - Open / Don't know what this is

Temp Sensor

At 68F - 2432 +- 250ohm / 2.88 Kohm at about 50 F

Ibreakstuff 12-09-2010 02:18 PM

Secondary is the plug. What is the resistance value of the plug cap? Unscrew the end from the coil and check the wire itself. Looking for 5k.

Ibreakstuff 12-09-2010 02:19 PM

I'm betting ignition coil.

Rubi 12-09-2010 02:33 PM

Book says plug lead to plug lead should be 5 K ohms + 10 K ohms for the caps. You want me to measure just a wire?

I'm reading that coil off of the wire harness that goes into it with a black and white wire. Is that correct? I haven't gotten any impedance to show up there. The yellow to brown that usually reads 00.0 I have seen values show up on that test.

ZLZEBUB 12-09-2010 02:52 PM

that rights theres funny RUBI.....

It's just simple backfiring and rough running....and now you have learnt WHY to buy an ARCTIC CAT.....their stators are seperated....one side runs the engine and one side runs the electric....so if this happens the sled will get you home just fine....think why TODD PALIN wins in arctic race....then when you get home you know 100% its the regulator or stator to test.....i now remember why i only buy ARCTIC CAT's EFI's.....but you gettin closer.....closer to it being the stator......DOH

Ibreakstuff 12-09-2010 03:00 PM

Borrow someone's coil.


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