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-   -   Mookie's got problems - and I need advice! (http://www.slednutz.com/showthread.php?t=4790)

Brian Lee 05-13-2010 08:33 AM

Im wondering if there isnt some kinda short thats fucking with you. Years ago had a old J10 4X4, if i hit a bump, or when it decided to, it would just die. After 1 month of that crazy shit, i took it to a friends shop and said WTF. It took him 3 days of chasing wire to find a little rub spot that would wiggle and to a ground and short the hole system out dead as shit. Sooooooo maybe you got a simple hidden short some place in the wiring loom???????

Gotmud 05-13-2010 08:39 AM

Maybe, just maybe, think about this for a minute. Does your wife like boating?:poosy:

Powersledder 05-13-2010 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gotmud (Post 100512)
Maybe, just maybe, think about this for a minute. Does your wife like boating?:poosy:

Maybe she let wolfie loose on your wiring harness? (remember wolfie is a gremlin)

DirtylilWolfess 05-13-2010 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Powersledder
Maybe she let wolfie loose on your wiring harness? (remember wolfie is a gremlin)

Fuck you. When have I ever displayed gremlin behaviors? I seem to recall your gremlin thread being about Mookie.

I also avoid the big city like the plague.

Maybe Mookie had sex with his boat and it caught a case of the gremlins too. Being as new as it is...the gremlin could be fucking with some sort of computerized control on his boat?

Powersledder 05-14-2010 09:24 AM

Oh ya, forgot mookie was the gremlin, well that explains everything. It's probably like Dr. Jekl and Mr. Hyde, whatever he fixes during the day he turns into a gremlin and fucks it all up again at night.

Wolfie, you're small enough to be one anyways and you're probably often mistaken for one

DirtylilWolfess 05-18-2010 11:15 PM

Yes, Mookie is the gremlin...

And no word on his boat...

Did you give up Mooksie?

Mookie Brown 05-19-2010 11:45 AM

No - but thanks to Ultra Willie, I'm working off a new theory. He strongly suspected the alternator, which I doubted that at first. After thinking about it more, here's an alternator scenario that I'll be able to test tomorrow.

Last summer, if the alternator was starting to fail, the battery needed more and more charging before we'd go out every time. Then a few weeks ago when I put the new battery in and charged it for a while, we were able to drive around with no problems, but it pretty well drained the battery. Ultra Willie suspects that a few days later when I went to turn on the blower and radio, the battery was too drained to do anything - even get LED lights to pop on. (He had an interesting battery theory about needing a minimum amount of juice for a battery to do anything - in other words, the battery won't discharge energy in a linear way. There is some threshold where the battery goes from functioning somewhat normally, to not at all. Some kind of protection mechanism???)

After quite a lot of charging, now all the electrical things work normally again. Measured 12.25v across the battery terminal and that seems pretty normal.

Tomorrow I'll have a chance to dump it in the water and test while running. I believe I'm supposed to get 1.5v to 2v higher than battery voltage at idle. Is that correct? Does anything less indicated a bad alternator? Is the voltage regulator connected to the alternator?

OCR 05-19-2010 12:04 PM

You should get not less than 11.4 - 12 v at idle and 14v at higher rpm.

Mookie Brown 05-26-2010 03:26 PM

Well, I think I'm getting somewhere. I've checked voltage both running and not. When not running, voltage was 12.5V and it hit right at 14.45V when the engine is on and running. I also checked voltage from the battery lead to the engine block ground post - figuring if the ground cable from battery to block was bad, I'd see it - and the voltage was consistent. Since it seems like the ground cable is good, I checked voltage from the lead on the starter to the ground post on the block and that was good too.

Earlier today when I had it in the water, I turned the key, the starter clicked and then finally turned and the engine started. Once I got home and tried to turn it over a few more times, the starter only clicks. Everything else electrical seems to work, so I am beginning to think this whole thing was just a bad starter. I've cleaned all the connections and pounded on it with a hammer and still can't get it to free up.

Thoughts?

Brian Lee 05-26-2010 06:01 PM

Its fairly cheap to change out a starter.

blue avenger 05-26-2010 09:42 PM

starter solenoid? have the auto parts store test it.

Mookie Brown 05-26-2010 10:16 PM

Don't think they sell the solenoid separate on this starter. About $200 for the new starter and solenoid.

I took my starter to the parts store, we found the replacement part. Then, I took it back home and since I had some time on my hands, re-installed it. Wouldn't you know the damn thing worked every time. Although it did pause at times it shouldn't. At this point, it couldn't be anything but the starter. My plan is to just go buy the other starter and keep the necessary tools in the boat along with the new starter for now. When this one gives up the ghost, I'll change it out.

If something else happens, I'll post. For now, the radio only seems to be cutting out at high rpm. Who the heck knows what's going on there, but it seems unrelated to the starting issue.

DirtylilWolfess 05-30-2010 03:49 PM

Maybe Gerbil farted out a strange-ling in your boat.

Mookie Brown 05-30-2010 07:38 PM

Replaced the starter and now there are no engine operating problems. Cant believe the way it went out. Really fooled me for a while. Radio still cuts out randomly, but appears to be unrelated to voltage. I think I'll wire it direct to the batter with a switch to eliminate any gremlins along the way.

rickfly 11-03-2013 03:54 PM

did you ever think your key switch has poor contacts? have seen them fail and cause odd things to happen. a decent battery should read at least 12.8 vdc nat rest with a charge, and a charging system at idle should be above 13 vdc with 13.4-13.8 at fast idle. grounds are very important, use some antiseize on the connections after scrubbing the crap and cleaning them, make sure the top of your battery is clean and not bleeding current from post to post. to clean it use a rag wetted with water and baking soda and then wipe it with clean water and a rag.

OCR 11-03-2013 05:17 PM

Two year old zombie thread, but that's OK as you probably did not look at the post dates.

Rubi 11-12-2013 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickfly (Post 125494)
did you ever think your key switch has poor contacts? have seen them fail and cause odd things to happen. a decent battery should read at least 12.8 vdc nat rest with a charge, and a charging system at idle should be above 13 vdc with 13.4-13.8 at fast idle. grounds are very important, use some antiseize on the connections after scrubbing the crap and cleaning them, make sure the top of your battery is clean and not bleeding current from post to post. to clean it use a rag wetted with water and baking soda and then wipe it with clean water and a rag.

I think that's timeless advice concerning undiagnosed electrical problems.

Mookie Brown 11-21-2013 04:27 PM

And it should be noted that Mud nailed the diagnosis within the first dozen posts or so!

Gotmud 11-22-2013 09:15 AM

Starter wire corroded? WTF we don't have a "pat yourself on back" smiley? ???



On a side note..... Harry, look 9 posts up from this one. Its your buddy!:deadhorse:

Dirty_Harry 11-22-2013 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gotmud (Post 125573)
Starter wire corroded? WTF we don't have a "pat yourself on back" smiley? ???



On a side note..... Harry, look 9 posts up from this one. Its your buddy!:deadhorse:

:bananafu::bananafu::bananafu:


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