This how-to is for an aggressive chassis Polaris (98 XCR 700). Most are close to the same, major differences in sleds with mechanical reverse.
1. First, drain your chaincase oil. There's a drain plug on the bottom, accessible outside the belly pan on the bottom. If yours doesn't have one just use a syphon through the dipstick hole and get as much as you can out.
2. If you have liquid cooled brakes, you're going to need to drain about half of your coolant out as well.
3. Loosen your track tension. Makes getting the actual chaincase off much easier.
Next, remove the pipe or pipes:
I prefer vise grips, they keep the springs from flying all over:
I already did, but remove the 4 screws that hold the chaincase cover on. This is what the inside looks like:
Inside you have a top gear, lower gear, chain, and tensioner (seen at right). Now you want to loosen the jam nut on the tensioner. It's a 1/2inch.
Then loosen the actual bolt. It may just be finger tight or might require a socket. After you loosen it all the way your tensioner is just kind of flopping there and you can remove it.
Now you need to remove the gears. The top is held in place with a castelated but and a cotter pin. I bend the cotter pin with a flat-bladed screwdriver until I can grab it with channel locks or pliars:
Then you can remove the bottom bolt and washer. 1/2inch I believe:
Then it's just a matter of pulling the gears off. Since the chain won't let you wiggle them you need to pull them both off at the same time.
Now it's time to get to the brakes so you can get the caliper off. I had to remove the little toolbox thing. Mine was held on by about 400 Torx screws.
Remove the clamps that hold the brake cooling lines on (if applicable).
This bracket is held on by the same bolts that hold the caliper in:
Now it's just a matter of prying the caliper off the rotor and twisting it out of the way.
Now it should look something like this:
Start getting the actual chaincase bolts off. They are all carriage bolts and are accessible with your hand in the tunnel. There are 4 total.
After you have all 4 off, it's a LOT of wiggling, prying, moving, knuckle-busting to get it off. Eventually you will be looking at this:
Congratulations. Your chaincase is out of your sled. Now it's time to do what we dissasembled it for.
This is a very blurry picture of the snap-ring that holds the bearing in.
Use snap-pliers to get it off. No, don't use a pair of needlenose you've ground the tips of. At least get cheapo tools from Harbor Freight!
After you have the snapring out, flip it over. I use a crappy "made in tawain" socket to pound the old bearings out. You want it bigger than the OD of the bearing but smaller than the seal.
Flip the chaincase over, and use either a bigger socket or a punch to get the seal out.
Tap the new bearing in, same for the new seal. Repeat for other side (bottom or top depending on which one you started with).
Make sure the place where the seal rides is clean and not "buggered" up. If it is it will chew up the new seal really quick.
Reassembly is the reverse of dissasembly. Clean and inspect the chain/gears/splines when reinstalling. I use threadlock on the nut/bolt that holds the gears on. Take the cover seal off and clean it. Also use a dab of RTV on the top where the ends meet to help seal it. Clean the dipstick as well before reinserting. CLEAN THE BRAKE ROTOR with brake cleaner!
Wow good job Bryan!!!
Almost as nice as the Studding your sled How-to. lol
Very informative and great pic's to help with the whole visual aspect of doing the job.
We need more How-to's like this!
That's a real nice tutorial you posted there. That would have been very helpful on a recent project of mine. Your application must be different than mine though, since I didn't see mention of a 6 Lb. maul, or a cutoff wheel in your post. These tools were an integral part of my chaincase project. I'd like to disagree with one thing you posted: I don't think buying a Chinese snap ring pliers is the way to go, since it probably won't last through this whole project. Get a decent American one, so you can use it next time too.
I don't think Bryan is talking about Chinese snap ring pliers but you are right when you say that you should buy a good set of snap ring plier's. The cheep ones tend to bend and break very easily and can damage the part you are working on or send a ring flying to god know's were.
I think he is talking about a Chinese socket. Cheep disposable crap socket so that you don't damage your good Snap On one's.
Yes, made in taiwan socket, but those snap-ring pliers that I used are from Harbor Freight, a half-step above taiwan.
Rubi if your bearing gets destroyed and you continue to ride on it, it will basically weld itself to the jack/driveshaft. I drove 5 hours on a bad wheel bearing in my CJ-7 and I had to cut the inner race off with a dremel into 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch pieces and chiselthem off.
^^^^That explains my difficulties. Mookie's brother, Gerbil, rode that sled several miles last year after the bearings siezed.
Last time I looked in Harbor Freight I don't think I saw anything that wasn't made in China. I just don't like giving my money to the government of Red China. I hate giving money to OUR government, why would I want to contribute to theirs.
hey guy's, this going to sound stuipid but I just started sledding last year so I don't know much .... But willl your chaincase seal dry up and suck up water? my chain case oil is creamy and a guy said you need a chain case seal or something please help!?!!
takes 5 minutes to take a bearing off with a torch!! i learned long ago that bearings are cheap and time is not.
good job bryan!
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