What Can I do to be the Fastest
ok, so i ended buying an ultra engine for my xcr. now the xcr i got is a 96 xcr 600. has slp skis and the rest is stock. my upgrade plans are
1. Brakes from a Pro-X, for better cornering feel and lighter
2. triple pipes, should be obvious why
3. maybe track
4. going to try and take as much weight off the front as possible, for better cornering and better balance
that's about as much as i want to change for now. the rest i was going to do was set up. front shocks/springs are going to get stiffened up alot, for better cornering. rear suspension set up is what im mostly going to worry about though. what i dont know is what set up will make this sled faster. i was thinking stiff shock all around, but the limited strap is tightened tight for ski pressure. highest coupling i can get. that way i can have all the transfer i need when im on the throttle, but also all the ski pressure to turn after i pull the brakes. correct?
any advice will be considered. probably going to upgrade to 800 later on but want to get the sled set up first.
i want this sled to be able to corner like a race car going around the track and also put out impressive top end speed numbers
put on a light weight rotor and pads and a stainless steel braided line, it will help with the quickness factor and the new line will give you a lot more feel.
going to a better track will for sure help stopping and going.
I would use the stock triple pipes and run the ultra engine. there is a ton of work a guy can do on the ultra engine, from setting the heads down a little to minor porting to major porting with case work.
flatslide carbs from an 800 xcr will help with faster throttle response.
21 41 gearing if it fits that chaincase will help that sled a lot, they are over geared for there hp and weight.
the secondary is where the clutching on that sled will come to make improvements. I like the 50-36 helix and silver blue spring, it works on all sleds and works great. a 52 or 54 initial angle and 38 even 40 degree finish with a big enough spring will give you a lot of bang but it takes your buttons out each season.
the sled from the factory corners like a slot car, on groomed trails no new sled can touch them old heavy things for flat fast cornering. i can see upgrading the rear shock for a little better ride or putting in an edge rear skid with a 136 track for improved ride and traction.
the sled is an xcr 600 and comes stock with the xlt engine and single pipe
wasn't thinking about changing the rotor because i don't think there are any options besides stock. will do if there are a pro rmk like rotor that will fit my sled bolt on.
was going to use stock carbs until the triple pipes get here and then i will use rack carbs from an srx 700. if those don't fit(rack carbs are a real hard install cause they don't fit very well at all) i will use stock carbs with UFO's
gearing will be figured out later
i will also be installing the stock 5/8 inch sway bar from a gen II xcr 800
clutching will be dialed in when i decide on gearing
probably won't put a 136 track on it. maybe a 128 at the most. and for the skid i will leave it stock for a long time unless i get a good find on a used skid with coupler blocks. is the edge skid faster than the xtra 10? not better ride, but better performance?
also some fly aerotaper or something handle bars just because i have some laying around.
so your putting an ultra engine in that chassis?!
I would go with the stock ultra spx, storm, 600 xcr sp pipes and fit them to the chassis.
xcr 800 rack carbs are an easy fit and a lot less hassle then srx carbs. but a little time with the rounds and some ufo's with some boysen reed pedals and you would have a pretty snappy engine. the xcr flatslides have a very light throttle pull compared to rounds that is the biggest advantage.
a little bit of port clean up and set the heads a little tighter for the trail and the engine will be very snappy.
slp makes a wave brake rotor that slides right on, you use the pads for that rotor as well, like I said with that rotor and pads with a braided line the sled will have a huge increase in feel and braking. on my last xcr 800 trail sled the stock setup you used several fingers for hard braking. the first time I hit the setup I am talking about it locked the track up. only needed 1 finger for braking. the gen 2 has a little lighter pull on the lever then the older indys but never the less.
the xtra 10 can be a great skid, probably the best skid for groomed trail riding and lake racing. not the best skid for ditch banging or huge bumps.
for gearing you are going to want to find some used hyvo gears. the xlt chain will be a weak link.
I ran a 13.5 128 with 1" lugs firecat track and it was a big improvement over the stock Polaris track. but before I went through that hassle again I would just put on a 121 cobra track. unless you are going to stud it. the cobra 121 will give you amazing traction and with no studs is a great track for lake running. if you are going to stud up a track I would go with a 1" hacksaw
crank up the ski springs, put the rear coupler blocks up tight position, and use the limiter straps to dial in ski pressure vs traction under throttle. use the springs on the rear to set ride height and how much the rear end will crush under acceleration.
yes, a 1996 ultra into a 1996 xcr 600 wedge. only thing the chassis needs changed is the exhaust outlet. I'm going to go with pipes from a guy who used to have an ultra years ago locally. said he forgot which brand they were.
over time i do plan on upgrading the engine, boysen reeds were next after triple pipes, then ufo's if the rack carb's don't fit.
already have a plastic brake lever/tank/cylinder from a pro-x 440, will get better lines too.
i don't think there's an xlt chain in there, but an xcr. regardless the ultra only has like 15 more hp than the xlt with the stock pipe. so for now i should be fine.
i am thinking about studding, if all that extra weight and work is worth it.
might look into getting different skis too, or at least better skags. probably my favorite part would be i want to get an xcr 440 hood and put it on there. xcr red was my favorite
Go with braided line for the brake, it will also help with performance and last much longer than just rubber brake hose.
kind of need to know what brand they are, slp had low or high rpms pipes. the other guys ran there pipes from 8700-9200 rpm depending on whos they are.
the monoblock engine had a 13 wide chain and that chain wasn't strong enough for the xlt engine with pipes.
flatslides are a direct bolt on.
studs are worth it for some guys, that a personal setup and how your ride.
for sure find plastic skis'
Madcow is the Bible on triples. Listen and learn.
alright, so everyone likes to talk crap about how good the srx is. well, i like to talk crap about how good a wedge xcr with ultra power is. has slp plastic skis, probably ditched about 10 or 15 pounds from the steel skis, even when the xcr was lighter than the srx to begin with. even more, the ULTRA 680 with stock pipe and steel skis was still lighter than the srx with plastic skis, the xcr is lighter than the ultra. ultra engine is only 6 pounds heavier than the xlt, so with pipes it would weigh just about the same as a monoblock 600 but with screamer 700 power. xcr was polaris' flagship go fast sled, so it came from the factory with the best suspension, low ride height, and the biggest sway bar. it definitely should NOT be a slouch. so, we combine polaris' go fast flagship sled, light engine, better suspension, and not to mention how much lighter than the srx is, who do you think would win in a race? what about a piped viper 700? i did get the chance to witness an srx in action. wow did the midrange fucking haul, pulled like a freight train then smoothed off until you were going probably over 100 easily(speedo was broken so i didn't know). i'm very concerned about how early the power band comes on and just keeps pulling hard. will an ultra/xcr be able to handle that kindof early power delivery or will the polaris' lighter weight and better suspension be able to take care of it?
That will all be in the clutching setup.
Something like a 60/53 multi angle helix will make it pull hard and then ease off to top end speed.
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