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2003 Polaris 800 RMK Vertical Edge WONT START

Polaris

 
 
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  #26  
Old 02-17-2011
R1seUp
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Ok Pilot jet is: 45

Also the exhaust it has is a SLP muffler and can.

What did do you think of the jetting with this muffler, also any input on the fuel screws shown above.
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  #27  
Old 02-17-2011
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The Baller
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I have an 02 800 rmk with slp pipe and can, I was previously running 430 mains and 55 pilots but I was pretty rich so I changed to a 410 on the mag side and a 400 on the pto. I also went to a 45 pilot. This is the recommended setup for 6000-9000 ft at +10 to +40.

Also check out this linK: http://www.startinglineproducts.com/...ets/09-834.pdf
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Last edited by The Baller : 02-17-2011 at 11:20 AM.
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  #28  
Old 02-17-2011
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The Baller, that helps a lot thanks for the info, I was super confused at that.
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  #29  
Old 02-17-2011
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I was about to tell you not to worry too much about your fuel screws, but I changed my mind. I found the end of one of my fuel screws broken off and stuck in my carb. My sled has run terrible since November. Order new fuel screws. They're $7.96 apiece from Babbits. If you want to try starting your sled before you get the new ones, just turn them in halfway. Don't seat them and then turn them out like you're supposed to. That bent one could break off creating huge headaches.
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  #30  
Old 02-17-2011
R1seUp
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This may sound stupid but when I read "Just until lightly seated" how much is this? Do I want the spring about as tight as can be or just until the spring is under tension. I just ordered new ones and do not want to make the same mistake twice with bending or smashing the tip down.
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  #31  
Old 02-17-2011
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"gently bottomed" is a better descriptor.
Then turn it back out 1 full turn.
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  #32  
Old 02-17-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R1seUp View Post
This may sound stupid but when I read "Just until lightly seated" how much is this? Do I want the spring about as tight as can be or just until the spring is under tension. I just ordered new ones and do not want to make the same mistake twice with bending or smashing the tip down.
The spring doesn't really have anything to do with it. "Gently bottomed" as OCR put it, would mean you are actually turning the screw until it stops. Don't tighten it. Just feel the end and stop. The usable length of the screws is five full turns out, so it takes quite a few turns to seat them.
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  #33  
Old 02-18-2011
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Mookie Brown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCR View Post
"gently bottomed" is a better descriptor.
Then turn it back out 1 full turn.
OCR,

I hope that no one somehow changes your signature to include "gently bottomed".
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  #34  
Old 02-18-2011
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Not gunna happen.
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Quote:
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  #35  
Old 02-18-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mookie Brown View Post
OCR,

I hope that no one somehow changes your signature to include "gently bottomed".
Mookie's signature should read, "power bottomed."
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  #36  
Old 02-20-2011
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Mookie is officially labeled as "slednuts' bitch."

Mods...please edit his profile to suit.
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  #37  
Old 02-25-2011
R1seUp
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I just got my parts yesterday and let me just say thanks to everyone for all your input, sled fired right up and runs great, must have been the floats. I want to ad that I am not sure if it is a must but shutting the fuel off seems to help a bunch as well. I am selling the sled now if anyone is interested for $3500 but I will put it on eBay next week if it has not sold yet for no reserve and start it off at $200 bucks with the $3500 buy it now. I have photos and a video.
Thanks
Jeremy
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  #38  
Old 02-26-2011
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I decided to go ahead and post it on eBay if anyone is interested here is the link. Main reason I am selling it is I blew my Ford Diesel 6.0 motor and need money for that but also I did enjoy learning about this as well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=130491200238
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