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Lets talk primary weights

Tuning

 
 
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  #1  
Old 01-27-2011
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Default Lets talk primary weights

My sled has 10-66 weights and I'm going to go to 68 gram weights. I've been told that the 11-68 weights have more weight on the tip than a 10-68, what about the others? I realize there are alot of weights on the market and it's probably hard to nail all of them down but I'd like to get an idea.

I'm not at all interested in any weights that have rivets in them, I want a solid weight.
What are some differences between different weights and the effects it would have on the machine?
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  #2  
Old 01-27-2011
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i have heard that the 11 series are a harder pulling profile than the 10 series wieght. dont know how true it is, or if it means that if you go to a 11-66 it will pull harder than your stock 10-66's. it would be intersting to see how the new 11 series pulls vs the 10 series. i would start with the 11-66 and see what they do for rpms.


if there both 66 grams but one has a lot more tip weight, it can bring down the w.o.t. shift rpms as its got more leverage, think of the weight as a pry bar. its fixed to the clutch at the bolt, that is where the pry bar is against the ground. the roller is the object you are going to lift and you are the mass of the weight. if you are closer to the pivot point you have less leverage, but you didnt change weight when you walked forward. so you need to push harder to put the same force. meaning the clutch has to spin faster. i am probably going to be running 62-66 grams in my 1000. does that mean i am not making any hp when a fanner is running 60-62 gram weights? no, i am spinning that weight close to 9 grand, the fanner is at 7 grand. same primary setup but clearly the higher rpm more hp engine is makeing a tremendous amount of belt sqweeze.

the polaris weights are very predictable weights and a safe route to take. talk to your dealer to see what they think of the difference.

i like the hot seat performance wieghts, there profile lets you use less physical mass but acts like a heavier weight.

after seeing battle storms sled use them heal clicker two speeds i am going to get myself a set of there goofie looking dragon fly wieghts for next year.

is the sled over revving?
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  #3  
Old 01-27-2011
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I'm not really over reving no. I've got 400 miles on it now and I'm noticing the rpms changing from what they were when new. The Dragon was the same way and when it happened I was able to pull heavier weights, thinking I can pull 68s now. Just didn't want to order the same ole 10 series weights, I was told I'd like the 11s better so I'm getting opinions.
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  #4  
Old 01-27-2011
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I don't remember exactly but the 11 series weights act either+ or- 2 grams heavier or lighter than its comparible 10 series
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  #5  
Old 01-27-2011
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Ewww now that's the first I've heard that?
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  #6  
Old 01-27-2011
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Google something along the lines of" polaris 10 series vs 11 series"

If your running 10-66 now, the comparible 11 series would be 11-64 or 11-68, I just can't remember which at the moment.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2011
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Now it makes sense when Flatty said he thought someone was pulling 70s in a poo 800. I believe he probably had 11-70 weights, which is what I'm going to try.
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Rich
"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #8  
Old 01-27-2011
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Anyone have any laying around lol? I hate to have to order weights just to find out they won't work and I need to order another set. Hey Madcow, what's laying around your place to try?
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Rich
"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi View Post
Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #9  
Old 01-27-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcow View Post

after seeing battle storms sled use them heal clicker two speeds i am going to get myself a set of there goofie looking dragon fly wieghts for next year.
I've got a set of heelclickers if anybody wants to mess around with them. They were too wide for the clutch I was going to put them in.
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  #10  
Old 01-27-2011
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i am pretty much out of any used stuff, i only have 10-62 and some old 66 gram cat weights.

what are the rpms running now compared to where they are suppose to run?

rubi, what is the base weight of you heel clickers? are they the two speed or the old style?
__________________
If the boner police are here I need a lawyer.

in a time of deciet telling the truth is a revolutionary act. george orwell.

aint no body ripin like me. M to the a-d-c-o-w. rock it hard for my fly ladies. I rock it yes in deed. homies still roll with me. money dont change me


nothing goes like 3 holes.

BRTECH HOODS
high performance engineering
aaen performance
millennium technologies
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  #11  
Old 01-27-2011
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^^Not sure. I'll have to dig them out. I think I saw them the other day, but it will probably take awhile before I can find them.
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  #12  
Old 11-06-2013
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Question Help !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcow View Post
The Polaris 11 series clutch weights are a harder pulling profile than the Polaris 10 series clutch weights.

Example:
If both clutch weights is 66 grams but one has a lot more tip weight,
it can bring down the w.o.t. shift rpms as its got more leverage,
think of the weight as a pry bar.
It's fixed to the clutch at the bolt, that is where the pry bar is against the ground.
The roller is the object you are going to lift and you are the mass of the weight.
If you are closer to the pivot point you have less leverage, but you didnt change weight when you walked forward.
So you need to push harder to put the same force.
Meaning the clutch has to spin faster.

I am probably going to be running 62-66 grams in my 1000.
Does that mean I am not making any hp when a fanner is running 60-62 gram weights ?
No, I am spinning that weight close to 9000 Rpm, the fanner is at 7000 Rpm.
Same primary setup but clearly the higher rpm more hp engine is makeing a tremendous amount of belt sqweeze.

The Polaris weights are very predictable weights and a safe route to take.
Madcow or someone else... ?

I have a fanner with a piston port engine that I trying to get the most out of.
The sled is strictly used as an on/off trail and ditchbanger sled.

Which Polaris clutch weight serie ( 10 or 11 ) would be better to use in a fanner ?

The engine produce 70 Hp at 7100-7300 Rpm.


Stock recommended clutching chart:
0-3000 Feet --> 54,5 Gram clutch weight.
3-6000 Feet --> 53,0 Gram clutch weight.
6-9000 Feet --> 52,0 Gram clutch weight.
9000 and up --> 49,0 Gram clutch weight.

The sled is being used between 1200-3000 Feet ( 350 - 900 Meter )


.
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Last edited by Lasse : 08-20-2014 at 11:56 AM.
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  #13  
Old 08-15-2014
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Question

help !!
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  #14  
Old 08-18-2014
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You'll probably be better off sticking with the 10 series weights.
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  #15  
Old 08-20-2014
Lasse
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Question

I need some explanation and advice regarding choose the right clutch weight curvature.
Polaris is offering the Series 10 and Series 11 clutch weight.

What are the advantages of each series ?
What are the disadvantages of each series ?


Quote:
The Series 11 flyweights feature an aggressive shift curvature, and thinner profile,
compared to the Series 10 weights.

When compared to a Series 10 weight, the Series 11 weight has more weight distributed at the beginning of the profile curve
and does not tuck under as much as the Series 10 weight.
Because of this difference, the belt-to-sheave clearance must be checked and washers may need to be added to increase the belt-to-sheave clearance after installing any Series 11 weight into a drive clutch that was previously equipped with Series 10 weights.

The procedure for increasing the belt-to-sheave clearance by changing shim washer(s) between the spider and fixed sheave

is outlined in all Polaris snowmobile service manuals.

When cross-referencing between Series 10 and Series 11 flyweights,

a Series 11 flyweight will function similarly like a 2-gram heavier Series 10 weight.
For example, use a 11-68 when replacing a 10-70 flyweight.


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  #16  
Old 08-20-2014
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If you're looking to play with weight distribution on your clutch weights, try something like the thunder shift heavy hitter weights;

http://www.thunderproducts.com/thunder_shift_heavy.htm


Moving the center of mass out or in on the flyweight changes the shift curve of the clutches.
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  #17  
Old 08-21-2014
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Powersledder View Post
If you're looking to play with weight distribution on your clutch weights,
try something like the thunder shift heavy hitter weights.
I am looking for simplicity, just install the clutch weights and forget about it.
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  #18  
Old 01-07-2016
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^^^^ To The Top ^^^^
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