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lightweight driveshafts

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  #1  
Old 05-16-2008
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Default lightweight driveshafts

Anyone have a link or know who makes lightweight shafts? Either titanium or aluminum? I'd like to swap out driveshaft and jackshaft to lightweight. Maybe I'd be better off taking them out and going to a machine shop?
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  #2  
Old 05-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotmud View Post
Anyone have a link or know who makes lightweight shafts? Either titanium or aluminum? I'd like to swap out driveshaft and jackshaft to lightweight. Maybe I'd be better off taking them out and going to a machine shop?
Probably right, let me know how you resolve it. I need to look at everything I can to get down in weight.

TARGET = <450# on Escape
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  #3  
Old 05-16-2008
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Yeah I think weight is gonna be my biggest target this summer. I'm going to pull my cylinders and have them ported, change my gearing, 1.5" lug track, and install powderhound skis. Then I'm just going to lighten everything that I can. I'd like to try getting my dry weight around 450-460 pounds. I'd like to take 10 pounds out of my rotating assembly too if I can come up with that much lol. Lightweight shafts, ported track, lightweight brake rotor should do the trick. I do know a local company that makes shafts, they will probably be my best bet. If I come up with something I'll let ya know Tim!
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Last edited by Gotmud : 05-16-2008 at 01:47 PM.
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  #4  
Old 05-16-2008
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How bout cutting back on the nutty bars? That seems like an easy start.
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  #5  
Old 05-16-2008
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I really don't think you are going to make a significant gain by swapping the driveshafts. The reason I say this is because yes the initial weight savings maybe 10 lbs or so, but you actually won't see much of a rotating mass savings because the material is all very close to the center of the shaft. But if you do make a swap get out the scale and see how much you did save...
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  #6  
Old 05-16-2008
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Originally Posted by RipnChick View Post
How bout cutting back on the nutty bars? That seems like an easy start.
Hmmm.... One would think that the most obvious place to start. I'm already on a diet lol. I like my sled need to lose 50 pounds by november.
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  #7  
Old 05-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple650indy View Post
I really don't think you are going to make a significant gain by swapping the driveshafts. The reason I say this is because yes the initial weight savings maybe 10 lbs or so, but you actually won't see much of a rotating mass savings because the material is all very close to the center of the shaft. But if you do make a swap get out the scale and see how much you did save...
You don't think 10 pounds of rotating mass would be noticable? I will be weighing everything and documenting it. I'll actually start a build thread later this summer.
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  #8  
Old 05-16-2008
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Originally Posted by RipnChick View Post
How bout cutting back on the nutty bars? That seems like an easy start.
Yeah like at 49 I have a prayer of dropping much below 200.....not likely.

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Originally Posted by Triple650indy View Post
I really don't think you are going to make a significant gain by swapping the driveshafts. The reason I say this is because yes the initial weight savings maybe 10 lbs or so, but you actually won't see much of a rotating mass savings because the material is all very close to the center of the shaft. But if you do make a swap get out the scale and see how much you did save...
For me, not so much interested in rotating mass, just need to drop pounds overall. Steep-n-Deep needs lite-n-nimble.
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  #9  
Old 05-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotmud View Post
You don't think 10 pounds of rotating mass would be noticable? I will be weighing everything and documenting it. I'll actually start a build thread later this summer.
The fact is it wouldn't be 10 pounds of rotating mass... The weight created by rotating mass is determined by three things, speed, density of the material and how far away from the center if the shaft it is... Now if you had 10 pounds rotating a foot away from the driveshaft you would gain more by making the swap but you don't have that... So I'm saying you would make the initial gain as if the sled wasn't moving and a little bit more... Get what I'm saying... This is why a track sizes are huge when talking top speed, it's a lot of mass on a much larger diameter.

But don't get me wrong its your sled and you have every right to make this swap I'm just making a point...

Last edited by Triple650indy : 05-16-2008 at 02:30 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple650indy View Post
The fact is it wouldn't be 10 pounds of rotating mass... The weight created by rotating mass is determined by three things, speed, density of the material and how far away from the center if the shaft it is... Now if you had 10 pounds rotating a foot away from the driveshaft you would gain more by making the swap but you don't have that... So I'm saying you would make the initial gain as if the sled wasn't moving and a little bit more... Get what I'm saying... This is why a track sizes are huge when talking top speed, it's a lot of mass on a much larger diameter.

But don't get me wrong its your sled and you have every right to make this swap I'm just making a point...
Have them port the new track before you buy it, lighten it up as much as you think you/it can stand. My 159 is ported with 3 rows across, never know they've been put in until it's stuck, less snow on skid then.
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  #11  
Old 05-16-2008
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Mud you are much better off going with Gun Drilled Chromolly Shafts. I have seen the splines twisted right on Aluminum Shafts and as far as I am concerned Titanium shafts have too much flex. A Gun Drilled Chromolly shaft is a little heavier but much stronger. Also a Wave Rotor with an Aluminum Hub will make a difference.
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  #12  
Old 05-16-2008
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Mud, you better consult the Shaftblaster on this one. I think she would tell you that shaft durability is much more important than light weight.
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  #13  
Old 05-16-2008
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  #14  
Old 05-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi View Post
Mud, you better consult the Shaftblaster on this one. I think she would tell you that shaft durability is much more important than light weight.
HAHA! Amen Rubi.
I was thinking that same thought initially
.
Just like it reminded me of how Poo lightened their A-Arms for 2009.
(we all know how durable those IQ A-Arms were to begin with right?)

Mud, what about starting with your seat? And track porting as was mentioned.
I wouldn't mess with stuff where durability is of priority.
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  #15  
Old 05-16-2008
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I took my seat off last night and thought about trying to make my own. I've seen websites that have different density lightweight foam for seat material.

Ok lets take a left and change the thread lol. What are some areas that are good for cutting a pound or 2, or more? Are there areas that one wouldn't normally think of to shed some extra weight?
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  #16  
Old 05-16-2008
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Just don't tell Vertical Escape you're going to be lightening your backpack!
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  #17  
Old 05-16-2008
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^^ Fuck no I'll still bring a shitload of rocks in my backpack, just incase I need them for traction.
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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  #18  
Old 05-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi View Post
Just don't tell Vertical Escape you're going to be lightening your backpack!




Seriously, track porting, seat, pipe/can, brake rotor, shocks,front suspension, rear suspension(depending on what you wanna spend and type you have), better boards or equivalent.

Lots of shit to lose weight, even if only a pound or 2, it adds up.

BTW, quite often if we're playing an area, my heavy-ass, supplied, backpack will be at base of hill. It has bit me a couple times if I forget shovel, otherwise it eases my back a lil anyway.
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  #19  
Old 05-16-2008
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If you guys really want a light sled you can just buy mine. 447lbs and there is still some lbs left to lose.
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  #20  
Old 05-16-2008
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well you could always start with:

Lightweight hood
Wiseco Wrist pins
lightweight A-Arms (ripn )
Powderhound ski's
get a lightweight skid
lightweight Idler wheels and bogey wheels
gut the airbox, or get pods
Aftermarket heads
lightweight steering stem
and you could always rework the cooling system ;)
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  #21  
Old 05-16-2008
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a fabcraft rear skid can save you almost 20 lbs. but set you back a couple grand.

I wouldnt stick any money into light weight shafts,

light wieght rotor and hub are nice.

you can check out seats. but the new sleds are pretty light?

in all honesty for a trail sled you could spend a couple grand and a lot of work to shed some lbs but in all really gain nothing.
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  #22  
Old 05-16-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX86 View Post
well you could always start with:

Lightweight hood (Looking at Mesh)
Wiseco Wrist pins (UBR)
lightweight A-Arms (ripn ) (Looking @Timbersled front system)
Powderhound ski's (Already have Flexi-Skis)
get a lightweight skid (Maybe, may try to build lighter CrMo suspension)
lightweight Idler wheels and bogey wheels (No idlers, switching to C.F or Alum bogeys)
gut the airbox, or get pods (Have both, switch as needed)
Aftermarket heads (UBR)
lightweight steering stem (possible mod, strength has to be there)
and you could always rework the cooling system (Maybe)
;)
Mine's the Escape (supposed to be lighter already), and I still need it to be mountain ready. Really don't want to change the seat, I actually like the way it sets now.

But I still should be able to trim a few pounds here and there and bring it down some more. The UBR motor is supposed to trim nearly 12 lbs. not sure. Also may weigh the 2 twin exhausts I have and try lightest pipe/stinger combo.
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  #23  
Old 05-16-2008
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SOAK THE CAN!!! 500hp and saves 19lbs
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  #24  
Old 05-19-2008
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Deep fry it and gain 750hp and lose 22lbs.
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  #25  
Old 05-19-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX86 View Post
well you could always start with:

Lightweight hood
Wiseco Wrist pins
lightweight A-Arms (ripn )
Powderhound ski's
get a lightweight skid
lightweight Idler wheels and bogey wheels
gut the airbox, or get pods
Aftermarket heads
lightweight steering stem
and you could always rework the cooling system ;)

What danny said, but keep in mind the light weight mountain skids are ment for deep powder riding. Some of the light weight rails I've seen would never hold up ditch banging.

I'm not sure what you've done already;
-lexan hood
-headlight blockout, smaller fog lamp style headlight
-Holz or ArsFX A-arms
-Holz Spindles
-Remove sway bar (not sure if that really is a good idea, never ridden an IQ w/out one)
-Be eXtRemE and completely ditch the seat or continue to make a light weight one yourself
-Port you track
-remove rear plastic pieces and tail light
-add LED tail light
-remove plastic crap off handlebars
-billet throttle block and brake cylinder
-remove windshield and flares
-Al handlebars
-rider select delete kit
-cromoly steering hoop (not sure who might make one)
-Billet chain case
-Remove hood and side panel foam

-Find some of that material people use for mesh hoods, Cut/drill a bunch of big holes in your hood/belly pan and place the mesh (water proof) material to cover the holes.

Driveshaft--You already should have a hydroformed driveshaft, those are relatively light already
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