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Polaris General Discussion

 
 
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  #1  
Old 10-18-2007
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As many of you know, last season I blew through 2 front drive shafts on Ugly Betty. Many folks (**cough-sledfx-cough* )were surprised, and adamant that something else must be wrong.
I swore up and down that the tunnel was straight, no apparent stress anywhere else in the skid, yada, yada, yada.

Well, I've recently come accross some new discoveries, namely these two:

1. My shock rod bushings were completely shattered. I figure this to be no big deal, they are a buck a piece, and IMO shouldn't have much influence over the entire suspension performance or functionality.

2. The more concerning discovery, is that the bolt hole in the shock, (referred to as # 12 in this diagram)

http://www.partsland.com/index.cgi?N...ONT-TORQUE-ARM

Is keyhole shaped, and has bolt grooves where they clearly should not be.

I'm wondering if anyone feels this to have been a contributing factor to my shaft debacles of late?

Additionally, what would be the cause of this bolt-hole stress deformation?

(*I have removed my rear suspension blocks, by the way, and that's how I ride.)

Feedback and input is greatly appreciated. Betty's got one last chance with shaft #3 this year.


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  #2  
Old 10-18-2007
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I don't see how either issue would result in a broken driveshaft. I've never broke a driveshaft and my 300# ass has bottomed out many of times. Sure the egghole shock mount will allow the shock to move around and jarr when quickly compressed but not enough to break a shaft. What do the bolt holes look like where the driveshaft bearing goes? What about the chaincase holes? It sounds more like one of the 2 may be eggholed or moving??

As far as the bolt hole deformation. If your bushings were shot then it gave the mounting bolt room to move. They must have been like that for awhile to egghole the steel bracket though.

Where exactly did the driveshaft shear? Next to chaincase? Between cogs?

Disclaimer: I'm just throwing out ideas and speaking out loud lol.
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  #3  
Old 10-18-2007
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Indeed this could cause enough vibration through all of your drive line to cause you the problems that you have been having... Vibration destroys things hence the reason your holes are all egged out... it doesnt take long for that bolt to wear those mounting points especially when its under high stress...

Its just like a car.. if the drive shaft is bent it can go as far as to break your crank (ive seen this happen on wissota street cars) ... anything thats rotating is 10 fold effected by vibration, and alot of the time you dont know it till its too late... Right ripin
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  #4  
Old 10-18-2007
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But enough to break the driveshaft? I can't see that much vibration. It would have to stretch the track in order to break a shaft.
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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #5  
Old 10-18-2007
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GotMud: Both shafts broke clear in half right between the two cogs.

Chaincase took a little wear and tear after the first go round, but bearings and seals were all replaced, and there was no wiggle in the shaft where it sits in the chaincase. I might have smoked it a little more though on the second go round.

SLEDFX......I was waiting for you

Yes, "too late" seemed to have been my motto last season.

Of course all these parts are now slated for replacement, since we have actually found them.

Hope things go better this year......but all I can think to myself lately is "wow, what if my shaft had broken and bound up my track as I was screaming mach II accros the lake, instead of puttering up an off-trail excursion at 20MPH??

Lucky in my bad luck is what I call it.

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  #6  
Old 10-18-2007
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I cant see how these little things will break a shaft. and the no rear coupler blocks have nothing to do with it either. it just helps you get on top of the snow.

are you running 2 or 4 drivers and are they timed correctly to each other and tight on the shaft? do you have a snow binding problem? like is the snow building up inside the track making the track get real tight or the front of the tunnel outside the track pushing down on the shaft and loading it? can you go to a smaller drive wheel setup and then gear back up in the chain case or port the track?
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  #7  
Old 10-19-2007
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^^ Makes me feel a little better lol. I was thinking about this all night last night after reading TwentySIXReds post.

Hey ripn do you have stock gearing?
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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #8  
Old 10-19-2007
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Madcow, I have 4 drivers.

I have never had any problems with snow binding.....lol, for the most part I'm a trail burner, but even when I jump trail and break pow, I still have never had a problem.

I am not sure how to check if the drivers are timed correctly. Need more of your input on this please. But they are tight on the shaft.

Also have absolutely no understanding of track porting.

gotmud, I am pretty sure I have stock gearing. Only performance "adders" to my sled (as far as I know) are a Hot Seat head, and some clutch work done by my local Poo dealer (who is a rather well known "clutch doctor" in these parts) again, I have no idea what set up he has in the sled (primary, helix, springs, etc.) But I know he clutched the sled for exactly what I like, which is all bottom end. Grunt, lots of torque and pull.

Top speed? Meh, I could care less about going 115 MPH across the lake for any extended time, but I sure as HELL want to get from 0 to 80 in a snap!
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  #9  
Old 10-19-2007
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Just a suggestion but while your at the shaft change maybe switch to anti-ratcheting cogs. That will allow you to run your track looser and save a little weight.
This is the cheapest I've found them if your interested....
clicky clicky
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #10  
Old 10-19-2007
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^^Interesting.
What are the subsequent effects of the looser track (if any) as they pertain to handling?

Although I'm not sure how much more green I'm willing to throw at Betty.......new money will from here on out be going towards a new sled. (Thats right, forever-wedge said she's goin new soon.)

(as mentioned earlier, I could give a rats ass about top speed, I'm a throttle jockey ski-puller )

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  #11  
Old 10-19-2007
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I wish my wife was into sledding like you sound lol. My wife says it's too damn cold. BUT if I buy her a quad she MIGHT like it enough to ride with my son and I.


As for the drivers....
It allowes you to drop 2 of the cogs thus losing how ever much they weighed. Also allows you to run track loser thus reducing friction, should free up a couple horsepower. It just seems to me like your track is getting tight somehow and breaking driveshafts. It would allow you to safely run your track looser.
Hmmm.... you don't have any ratching problems do you? That would break driveshafts.

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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

Quote:
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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #12  
Old 10-19-2007
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^^LOL, cold? I sweat when I ride.

Now, it seems I'm opening up a whole new can of worms. I'm not sure how to even check or measure the tightness of my track.

Is there a standard for track tightness? And how would it be measured?

Or is it just an "eyeball" measurement, or something you have to ride, feel, adjust, ride until it "feels" right?


Ratching?
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  #13  
Old 10-19-2007
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Most manuals state that the track should have about 1 to 1 1/2 in deflection when a 16 lb weight is suspended from the center point of the track.
A looser track will reduce rolling resistance, but if it is too loose, it will ratchet on the drives. It is my understanding that if you use the anti ratchet drives, you can go as much as 2 1/2 to 3 inches of deflection. Thereby reducing the rolling resistance even more. resistance reduction = more speed and quicker accelerations.
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  #14  
Old 10-19-2007
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Probably not ratcheting, you'd know if it was lol.

When adjusting track tension with sled suspended so track is off the ground. With a 5 lb weight (I just pull on it lol) The track should sag about 1inch from sliders.
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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #15  
Old 10-19-2007
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Well maybe it's more weight then lol. It's been awhile since I've read my manual.
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #16  
Old 10-19-2007
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Read my post didn't you.
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  #17  
Old 10-19-2007
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After I typed mine. Or I would have made sure to copy yours and said it was mine lol.
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Rich
"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #18  
Old 10-19-2007
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HA!! I caught you!!









J/K we all misspeak or in this case mistype on occasion.
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  #19  
Old 10-20-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCR
Most manuals state that the track should have about 1 to 1 1/2 in deflection when a 16 lb weight is suspended from the center point of the track.
A looser track will reduce rolling resistance, but if it is too loose, it will ratchet on the drives. It is my understanding that if you use the anti ratchet drives, you can go as much as 2 1/2 to 3 inches of deflection. Thereby reducing the rolling resistance even more. resistance reduction = more speed and quicker accelerations.
For the Polaris Xtra-10 the manual says 1/2" from the rail to the track in the center with a 10lb.
weight hanging. That seems way too tiight. I run mine between 3/4 and 1".
Looser is better as long as your not racheting.
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  #20  
Old 10-20-2007
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You will note, that I said MOST manuals.
There is always an exception and you should always consult your manual.
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  #21  
Old 10-20-2007
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Wow i feel like an idiot... Madcow I know what your saying now for some reason I was thinking about something totally differnt (The bushings that the drive shaft itself rides it) I read that totally wrong... I dont know what my excuse is for that one..,..
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  #22  
Old 11-12-2007
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So ripn, did you guys ever figure out if something else was wrong?
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #23  
Old 11-12-2007
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Nope, not really.
We'll just have to see what this year has in store for me. lol
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  #24  
Old 11-12-2007
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lmao well that sucks. Kinda sucks when you hit the trail not knowing how far you'll make it lol. Last time I had that feeling I got a newer sled.
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

Quote:
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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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