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Need advice on the XCR 800

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  #1  
Old 01-14-2009
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XCR HYPER TRIPLE
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Default Need advice on the XCR 800

I need some advice. As some of you know I have a 2003 XCR 800 and it has a few mild mods done to it. New Helix, Almond spring, Blue/orange driven spring, 10-62 WT, 23T Gear, Ripsaw track 1.25", Vforce 3 reeds and the Holtzman Attac system. This sled also has about 5500 miles on it and it has never had the water pump done, carb slides done or broken a motor mount. Compression a few weeks back was 135, 135, 135 per cylinder on one gauge and 140, 140, 140 on another. This sled has only been beat by one other which was a modded t-cat that I own as well. My mechanic who is also my friend says I should freshen up the top end with some new pistons, bore the carbs and case port it. Is this something I should do? I was pretty much set to go and get it done until I saw a topic on hard core sledder showing stocker XCR's hold there own against or beat a lot of other modded XCR's. Will I just be causing myself grief? I really trust my friend because he is the one that set me up to be as quick as I am now but I'm paranoid. What would you do? Any advise would be appreciated I have to make up my mind real soon.

XCR VS Ported & piped XCR topic on Hardcore sledder below.
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forum...=376929&st=160



Cheers
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Quote: From American Snowmobiler
Polaris will return with the 800 XCR. The big triple triple mill is still the strongest 800 production engine we've ever put on the dyno. 159.2 HP
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2009
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If it aint broke, don't mess with it!!
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  #3  
Old 01-14-2009
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I agree with OCR on this one! Leave it as it is, grip & rip!!!!
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2009
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If it aint broke you aint tryin!
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  #5  
Old 01-14-2009
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Tear that bitch down and make the Snow melt around it!! Oops, Madcow and UltraA$$ might think I'm a traitor!!!
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  #6  
Old 01-14-2009
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i have been in the same boa twith mine, 3800 miles never torn down and holds 125 per cyl. i wanna go 660 but then i think wel its runs good and goes quick so fuck it, and leave it be.

so i agree if it aint broke dont fix it.
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  #7  
Old 01-14-2009
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lol compression sounds just fine I wouldnt spend money on pistons or rings yet.

if i could rewind time I would do my case work and cylinder work, head work, bore the carbs, advance the timing 2 degrees at the stator. and run stock pipes.
on my stock pipes i could pull 10-64 wieghts with the 50-38 progressive helix.

on hcs most of us that had good setup stock pipes with port work have beat many sleds that have some pipes and off the shelf setups. the guys on hcs also say to run the sled at 8100, but i had some of the fastest speeds on ice at 8700 rpm. don and phil love the gear low for drags and i love the gear tall for speed. but i do agree with them, if you get a huge lead on the short run you dont need top speed to win the race.

but, I am trying to talk zrxpilot to let me have his stock xcr for a week to see what gains we can make just clutching and gearing.

i want to try a 22-41 or 23-41 gearing in richards sled vs 25-38 gearing in 500 foot runs against the radar to see which gearing can built the quick speed, then toss it out to 1000' and see how much different there is there.
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aint no body ripin like me. M to the a-d-c-o-w. rock it hard for my fly ladies. I rock it yes in deed. homies still roll with me. money dont change me


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  #8  
Old 01-14-2009
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I like the sound of your if I did it again set up madcow should I go with that? Or just case port, bore the carbs and do the water pump for now and forget the pistons? Did the 2003 XCR 800 have the upgraded carb slides or do I have the shit ones? If I case port should I use 10-64's? What kind of gains can I expect from these few mods? I'm seriously thinking about putting the .91" track back on with studs too!

Cheers
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Quote: From American Snowmobiler
Polaris will return with the 800 XCR. The big triple triple mill is still the strongest 800 production engine we've ever put on the dyno. 159.2 HP

Last edited by XCR HYPER TRIPLE : 01-15-2009 at 12:06 AM.
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  #9  
Old 01-15-2009
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According to the Polaris parts diagrams the '03 XCR also had the shit green slides.
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  #10  
Old 01-15-2009
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159.2 HP?

Oh man another reason to rib Ace......LOL

Ace your going to miss great weather this weekend -
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  #11  
Old 01-15-2009
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you have good compression so the only reason i would change pistons and rings would be because of some scoring that just happens,

in all honesty I would leave it stock and play with gearing, but, when i did the case port and lower cylinder port leaving the port windows stock, boring the carbs, setting the heads, advancing the timing, I also put in wiseco light wieght wrist pins, the motor had such a quick snap to it the machine was like a formula one engine.

i really liked running 10-66 weights with stock gearing or a little lower than stock with a straight 36 helix and a polaris black helix on hole 2. didnt have the super hard launch but it just kept pulling.

if all the sled is going to be used for is hardpack trail and lake racing, I would run a 9811 speed track with carbide tipped ice pics or chisels. a 1" long 7mm pic or chisel is a lot lighter than a regular trail stud, now when you are at 192-244 of them it is a huge difference for the top end run in the 1000' or 1/4 mile drags. on hard pack dont be fooled by the little 1/2 " lug of the track, setup the rear skid and you will hook up and fly. plus the speed track is made to run a little more snug than a stock track so you dont get the balloon effect. in the 1000' on a stock 440 red rocket we saw 7 mph difference with stock track and studs vs ice pics.

since you have the tcat to test against. I would play with the gearing, for the heck of it I would drop like a 22-41 gearing in there, play with the suspesion and run some drags, with lower gearing you can pull a bigger helix for more bang out of the hole!! or basically with lower gearing you might be able to loosen the secondary spring one hole, even if you start out a little low on rpms dont worry it will climb on the top end.

another thing to do before you cut the motor apart is to have your clutches checked,
on the primary clutch remove the spring, shut the clutch and see where your belt rides, if it dont get very close to the top you can machine the inner faces of the sheaves, same with the secondary, remove the spring, put the helix in and the snap ring. with the primary closed see how far the belt gets sucked down into the secondary, if the secondary cant open as far as the primary then you can cut into the helix at the bottom of the ramps for more room.
also have the faces of the clutches machined smooth, you will be amazed how not true the face of a clutch is.
__________________
If the boner police are here I need a lawyer.

in a time of deciet telling the truth is a revolutionary act. george orwell.

aint no body ripin like me. M to the a-d-c-o-w. rock it hard for my fly ladies. I rock it yes in deed. homies still roll with me. money dont change me


nothing goes like 3 holes.

BRTECH HOODS
high performance engineering
aaen performance
millennium technologies
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Garceau View Post
159.2 HP?

Oh man another reason to rib Ace......LOL

Ace your going to miss great weather this weekend -
Rib Ace? I don't get it?? How much hp does a stock Apex have, which is 200cc's bigger?? LOL!

Gonna be great riding weather up there! 20 degrees Sat/Sun
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcow View Post
you have good compression so the only reason i would change pistons and rings would be because of some scoring that just happens,

in all honesty I would leave it stock and play with gearing, but, when i did the case port and lower cylinder port leaving the port windows stock, boring the carbs, setting the heads, advancing the timing, I also put in wiseco light wieght wrist pins, the motor had such a quick snap to it the machine was like a formula one engine.

i really liked running 10-66 weights with stock gearing or a little lower than stock with a straight 36 helix and a polaris black helix on hole 2. didnt have the super hard launch but it just kept pulling.

if all the sled is going to be used for is hardpack trail and lake racing, I would run a 9811 speed track with carbide tipped ice pics or chisels. a 1" long 7mm pic or chisel is a lot lighter than a regular trail stud, now when you are at 192-244 of them it is a huge difference for the top end run in the 1000' or 1/4 mile drags. on hard pack dont be fooled by the little 1/2 " lug of the track, setup the rear skid and you will hook up and fly. plus the speed track is made to run a little more snug than a stock track so you dont get the balloon effect. in the 1000' on a stock 440 red rocket we saw 7 mph difference with stock track and studs vs ice pics.

since you have the tcat to test against. I would play with the gearing, for the heck of it I would drop like a 22-41 gearing in there, play with the suspesion and run some drags, with lower gearing you can pull a bigger helix for more bang out of the hole!! or basically with lower gearing you might be able to loosen the secondary spring one hole, even if you start out a little low on rpms dont worry it will climb on the top end.

another thing to do before you cut the motor apart is to have your clutches checked,
on the primary clutch remove the spring, shut the clutch and see where your belt rides, if it dont get very close to the top you can machine the inner faces of the sheaves, same with the secondary, remove the spring, put the helix in and the snap ring. with the primary closed see how far the belt gets sucked down into the secondary, if the secondary cant open as far as the primary then you can cut into the helix at the bottom of the ramps for more room.
also have the faces of the clutches machined smooth, you will be amazed how not true the face of a clutch is.

Thanks for the awesome info Madcow it is appreciated!

Cheers
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Quote: From American Snowmobiler
Polaris will return with the 800 XCR. The big triple triple mill is still the strongest 800 production engine we've ever put on the dyno. 159.2 HP
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-16-2009
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yeah if i could do it over again i guess i would start with machining the clutches, then gearing and clutching.

I like the tall gearing for most trail riding, but i did gear low a couple time and it was a riot. just rip your arms and went.
__________________
If the boner police are here I need a lawyer.

in a time of deciet telling the truth is a revolutionary act. george orwell.

aint no body ripin like me. M to the a-d-c-o-w. rock it hard for my fly ladies. I rock it yes in deed. homies still roll with me. money dont change me


nothing goes like 3 holes.

BRTECH HOODS
high performance engineering
aaen performance
millennium technologies
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-17-2009
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yeah so thanks for jinxing me with this thread ya bastards..... i lost a cylindertoday on the xc
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  #16  
Old 01-17-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slamdry View Post
i have been in the same boa twith mine, 3800 miles never torn down and holds 125 per cyl. i wanna go 660 but then i think wel its runs good and goes quick so fuck it, and leave it be.

so i agree if it aint broke dont fix it.
And if it is, upgrade LOL
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  #17  
Old 01-17-2009
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lol yeah i will find out tomorrow what kind of damage is done, i know the recoil side piston has no compression now. i got a jug and new piston and rings in stock so i hoping for a quick rebuild so i can get back out and ride, we have some of the best snow we have had in years and now im all out of toys :D lol
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