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Raising the bars

Snowmobile How-To's

 
 
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  #1  
Old 01-26-2009
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Default Raising the bars

I get asked a lot about this, So hopefully this will help someone

Disconect throttle cable from throttle block.
There is an E-clip or C-clip holding it in.

Screw the end of the brake line out of the master cylinder and the other end out of the caliper.
Look at how it's routed so that you can put the longer one in the same.

Disconect the throttle cable from the oiler and from the carbs,
again, look at the routing for the same reason as brake line.

Remove the bar clamp and set bars aside to where the wires will let it sit.

Bolt risers and adapter if needed (don't know what you ride or what kind of riser you are looking at) to top of stearing post or to bar clamp, wich ever is applicable for your machine/risers

Bolt bars to the risers in the position they will be

attach throttle cable to thumb throttle with stock E or C clip.
attach oiler and carb sides of throttle cable.

Adjust OIL SIDE FIRST to where the allignment marks are not quite lined up, but do line up perfectly when free play is taken out of cable, but carbs do not open at all yet.

Now zip tie throttle to grip or have some one hold it in full throttle position while you adjust carb side.
Your rack or carbs should just hit full throttle position when thumb throttle just hits the grip.
This way you will have the propper free play at idle and your micro safety switches will work propperly.

Attach both ends of your brake line accordingly and bleed them just like you would any other hydraulic brake.
Galfer fitting spec says DO NOT TIGHTEN BANJO BOLT OVER 0.5KG

Now look at your electricals and extend them one at a time if needed.

Check all routing to make sure no cables are making tight turns and that nothing is touching exhaust pipe etc.
I do like to use the zip ties here.
Some times a little heat tape is needed when things are close to the pipe as well.
If it looks like it will get hot, be safe and give it a wrap.
The 8" rule is good here.
With in 8" of pipe needs to be wrapped.

Go back and check your throttle cable adjustment on both oiler and carbs BEFORE starting motor.
Make sure that it goes smoothly from idle to full throttle and back.

There you go, it's done
bar risers, brake line, and throttle cable.

For any electricals,
splice in a piece of wire with butt conectors or solder,
Shrink wrap over that, and wire loom over that.
Do the wires one at a time so as to not cross any wires.
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  #2  
Old 01-26-2009
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1050 one lunger
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i think if a guy was bored and sat around making 6" pig tails for the different sleds with stock connectors on them he might make some money?
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  #3  
Old 01-26-2009
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^^^
Ya, most definately.
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  #4  
Old 01-26-2009
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but when I tried to do all that my cable wont reach. Now what do I do?
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  #5  
Old 01-26-2009
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longer throttle cable,
Get them direct from www.gravityworxracing.com or the same ones through Madcow
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  #6  
Old 01-26-2009
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Student Driver View Post
I get asked a lot about this, So hopefully this will help someone

Disconect throttle cable from throttle block.
There is an E-clip or C-clip holding it in.

Screw the end of the brake line out of the master cylinder and the other end out of the caliper.
Look at how it's routed so that you can put the longer one in the same.

Disconect the throttle cable from the oiler and from the carbs,
again, look at the routing for the same reason as brake line.

Remove the bar clamp and set bars aside to where the wires will let it sit.

Bolt risers and adapter if needed (don't know what you ride or what kind of riser you are looking at) to top of stearing post or to bar clamp, wich ever is applicable for your machine/risers

Bolt bars to the risers in the position they will be Make sure bolts are tightened completey on both pivots. Check again after 1st few miles.

attach throttle cable to thumb throttle with stock E or C clip.
attach oiler and carb sides of throttle cable.

Adjust OIL SIDE FIRST to where the allignment marks are not quite lined up, but do line up perfectly when free play is taken out of cable, but carbs do not open at all yet.

Now zip tie throttle to grip or have some one hold it in full throttle position while you adjust carb side.
Your rack or carbs should just hit full throttle position when thumb throttle just hits the grip.
This way you will have the propper free play at idle and your micro safety switches will work propperly.

Attach both ends of your brake line accordingly and bleed them just like you would any other hydraulic brake.
Galfer fitting spec says DO NOT TIGHTEN BANJO BOLT OVER 0.5KG

Now look at your electricals and extend them one at a time if needed.

Check all routing to make sure no cables are making tight turns and that nothing is touching exhaust pipe etc.
I do like to use the zip ties here.
Some times a little heat tape is needed when things are close to the pipe as well.
If it looks like it will get hot, be safe and give it a wrap.
The 8" rule is good here.
With in 8" of pipe needs to be wrapped.

Go back and check your throttle cable adjustment on both oiler and carbs BEFORE starting motor.
Make sure that it goes smoothly from idle to full throttle and back.

There you go, it's done
bar risers, brake line, and throttle cable.

For any electricals,
splice in a piece of wire with butt conectors or solder,
Shrink wrap over that, and wire loom over that.
Do the wires one at a time so as to not cross any wires.


Good tut .......

Don't ask how I know about the pivot bolts
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  #7  
Old 01-26-2009
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1050 one lunger
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how much nicer do the pro taper 1-1/8 bars feel in your hands vs the stock 7/8"?
__________________
If the boner police are here I need a lawyer.

in a time of deciet telling the truth is a revolutionary act. george orwell.

aint no body ripin like me. M to the a-d-c-o-w. rock it hard for my fly ladies. I rock it yes in deed. homies still roll with me. money dont change me


nothing goes like 3 holes.

BRTECH HOODS
high performance engineering
aaen performance
millennium technologies
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  #8  
Old 01-26-2009
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;) You left that out of the story, I'm giving you a B-
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcow View Post
how much nicer do the pro taper 1-1/8 bars feel in your hands vs the stock 7/8"?
They feal the same in your hands because the grip area is still 7/8, they just flex less.
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  #10  
Old 01-26-2009
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hmm, i noticed on the gen 2 that the steering loop and post flex alot, especially with 8" of handle bar lift and 260 lbs leaning on it.
__________________
If the boner police are here I need a lawyer.

in a time of deciet telling the truth is a revolutionary act. george orwell.

aint no body ripin like me. M to the a-d-c-o-w. rock it hard for my fly ladies. I rock it yes in deed. homies still roll with me. money dont change me


nothing goes like 3 holes.

BRTECH HOODS
high performance engineering
aaen performance
millennium technologies
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-26-2009
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Vertical_Escape
825 Union Bay - Go West
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Default

8" riser puts a shitload of stress on steering shaft. I noticed the shaft flexing a little on the Escape with new 6" riser. But it lays over much easier
__________________
Scars heal,
Glory fades,
All we're left with are the Memories we made.



Snow Cover US
Snowmobile Alliance of Western States Cutting Through Deceptions and Perceptions To Protect YOUR RIGHT To Ride.
BlueRibbon Coalition Preserving Our Natural Resource FOR The People Instead of FROM The People


http://www.mtn-paradise.com



Quote:
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
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  #12  
Old 01-27-2009
crdude
Local 495 willow billyS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madcow View Post
hmm, i noticed on the gen 2 that the steering loop and post flex alot, especially with 8" of handle bar lift and 260 lbs leaning on it.
8" risers on a gen2 will lead to this.. even with my reinforced steering post..


needless to say, I was pissed.
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  #13  
Old 01-27-2009
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The Gen 2 post sucks in general.
I've had good luck with filling them with fiberglass resin.
Just mix it up with a little less hardener.
From there, I highly suggest a stronger stearing post because accidents will happen and sleds will get rolled.

Like all things, when the sled is rolled, they can bend and break.
I'm replacing the post on my wife's Edge now because she found a bad place to get bounced off of her sled.
It came to a very fast stop at the bottom of the hill in the trees.
In this case, it's the post (soon to be a Wild Child post) tub, hood, both left radius rods, trailing arm, left side shock god sheared in half, upper shock mount, etc. etc.
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2009
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The gen 2 post:
Here:
http://snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119437
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