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Stroke it or Big Bore?

ATVs

 
 
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  #1  
Old 01-09-2008
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Default Stroke it or Big Bore?

My atv is an 06 ltz400 with the following mods....
Stage 1 cams (no stage 2 available)
Jetted for stage 2
Aluminum airbox with breathable net airbox lid
400ex carb boot to airbox
Aluminum oil tank that holds 1 qt more oil
Procomp rev box
Pro Circuit header pipe
Yoshi muffler
Radiator air scoops for more airflow
Thermal fan switch to run cooler
Gearing changed but not done yet, gonna try diff ratio again this year.
Will have +3" extended chromoly swingarm before june.

I'm ready for my next mod but all I have left is to bb or stroke it. Which is better in the longrun? Pricewise they are pretty close so I'm not sure which will be the best bang for my buck.
Here is the stroker kit....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUK...sid=p1638.m118
Here is the BB kit.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LTZ40...QQcmdZViewItem
Those are 2 similar kits that I'm thinking about. Anything I do won't be until after sledding season, end of march. I'm curious what you guys think would be more dependable and produce the best power. I'm also kinda curious if the 2 can be done in conjunction with each other, if so maybe next year I'll do the latter of the 2.
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  #2  
Old 01-09-2008
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Long stroke will give more low end power, bb will do more for the top end.
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2008
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^^ From that statement I'd go with the bb kit. The only reason I'd really need the extra power is for the drags.
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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2008
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hmmm, not me.
I'd take torque and grunt on low end every single time over top end.

Stroker gets my vote.
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2008
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I have plenty of torque out of the hole. It's middle to the end of the track that I can't hold my own. My launch is decent, normally hold a wheely for the first 10 feet though. If I had more torque on the bottom I'd have serious launch issues.
I ended up adding a tooth to the front sprocket last year to stop the wheelies at launch, didn't work lol. This year I'm going to put stock front sprocket back in and add a tooth to the rear sprocket (same as adding 2 teeth to front). I'm hoping between the gear change and longer swingarm that'll cure my wheely issues.
Then I'd want the bb kit or stroker kit to put the nail in the coffin at the latter half of the track. Sounds like the bb kit would be more suited for where I need the power.
Gotta remember my poor quad has a 300 pound disadvantage lol.
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #6  
Old 01-09-2008
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^^oops, thats right, I forgot about your fat ass. lol

BB it is!
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  #7  
Old 01-09-2008
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BB kit it is!!





















Oh and....
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Rich
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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #8  
Old 01-09-2008
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Do both!
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  #9  
Old 01-09-2008
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ripn wants it stroked. lol
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  #10  
Old 01-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmud View Post
This year I'm going to put stock front sprocket back in and add a tooth to the rear sprocket (same as adding 2 teeth to front).

you better check that math again bud.

whatever you do, while your in there change your cam chain PLEASE.

the 400 cam chain adjuster is a piece of shit.
and we've had more of them in the shop for camchains than any other internal motor problem.

the thing is the camchains aren't even that worn out. but the adjuster just doesn't have enough travel.
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  #11  
Old 01-10-2008
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Please check my math.
I was told when doing my gearing last year that adding one tooth to the rear is the equivilant to changing 2.4-2.6 teeth on front. Can't remember exactly what it was but I know it was less than 3. Am I wrong?
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #12  
Old 01-10-2008
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What he means, is that adding (or enlarging) the drive sprocket will create a taller ratio - more top end but harder to get there. Adding teeth to the driven (rear) does the opposite, more down low "grunt" and acceleration.

Adding one to the front would be like REDUCING the rear by 2-3 (guesstimate). Removing one from the front would be like ADDING 2-3 to the rear (again, guesstimate). Whenever you change the smaller gear it has a larger effect on the larger gear, regardless of which is drive or driven in any application.
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  #13  
Old 01-10-2008
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OOOOOOOooooo I see what you mean lol. I guess I'm speaking backwards. You are correct ibs. I guess I had a brain fart lol.
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi View Post
Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.

Last edited by Gotmud : 01-10-2008 at 08:47 PM.
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  #14  
Old 01-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmud View Post
You are correct ibs

Say it again:

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmud
You are correct ibs
One more time

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmud
You are correct ibs
Ahh ok now. I feel better about myself. How about you?

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Originally Posted by gotmud
I guess I had a brain fart lol
Damn that sucks.
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2008
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lmao
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Rich
"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi View Post
Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #16  
Old 01-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog_shotgun View Post

whatever you do, while your in there change your cam chain PLEASE.

the 400 cam chain adjuster is a piece of shit.
and we've had more of them in the shop for camchains than any other internal motor problem.

the thing is the camchains aren't even that worn out. but the adjuster just doesn't have enough travel.
What do you do? My cousin did the cams because I didn't want to mess with the valves. He never mentioned anything about the chain or adjuster, I wasn't even there lol. Is there an aftermarket chain adjuster available? I'm going to have him show me how to adjust the valves, he says I should do it often?
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi View Post
Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #17  
Old 01-11-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmud View Post
What do you do? My cousin did the cams because I didn't want to mess with the valves. He never mentioned anything about the chain or adjuster, I wasn't even there lol. Is there an aftermarket chain adjuster available? I'm going to have him show me how to adjust the valves, he says I should do it often?
I am a mechanic in a powersports shop. sleds,bikes, quads. etc.

the valves need adjusted fairly often but not constantly. depends how often you ride. approx. 50-100 hours the valve wear on the LTZ/ KFX. is much better than the 450's especially hondas. the trx450r has a recomended interval of 16hrs. heck they recommend re-ring at 16 and new piston at 32hrs.
like i said the real problem is that the cam chain adjuster doesn't have enough reach.
i don't use the paper gasket behind the adjuster. just 1104 it and put it on. that gains you about .050 of adjustment.

as far as how many teeth one front is compared to one rear.
thats simple division.
if your ratio is 14/43
then one front tooth is the same as 3.07 rear teeth.

but no matter what a tooth on the front makes a larger difference than one on the rear.

since you added 1 to the front that would the same as running the stock front and removing 3 from the rear. if you want to gear up farther you can add another to the front or remove teeth from the rear. but typically if you are drag racing , even in mud. your better off to lower your ratio. and the time saved in the higher gears will be greater than the time saved by trying to control the launch. your getting traction now so get your ass up on that tank.
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Last edited by bulldog_shotgun : 01-11-2008 at 04:54 PM.
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  #18  
Old 01-14-2008
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I have a question. why cant you do them both? I understand the money part of it. but why not get one first and then the other?
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  #19  
Old 01-14-2008
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^^ I'm not sure if both can be done, I'm hoping someone answers that. If it's possible to do both then I will. I will do the bb this year and stroke it next year.
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Rich
"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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Originally Posted by Rubi View Post
Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #20  
Old 01-23-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmud View Post
^^ I'm not sure if both can be done, I'm hoping someone answers that. If it's possible to do both then I will. I will do the bb this year and stroke it next year.
yes you can do both.
but as far as the money goes i'd wait and do both together, you'll save money.
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