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Going to try grass drag racing...

Tuning

 
 
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  #1  
Old 09-24-2007
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Default Going to try grass drag racing...

Me - 250. My agressive chassis - 1.3 tons.

1998 XCR-700 non VES, this is the inbetween of the 99 XCR-700 and the Ultra-SPX. Stock gears.

I'm looking to do 500 foot drags in a couple weeks and need a little help with clutching.

Perfect scenario - what would I need where?
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

your gf's hot little ass on the seat and you watching for one.
that'll save you about 400lbs
and then a big prayer.
together they might just get you in the finals.

lol actually
i will help you but you gotta tell me whats in them clutches
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  #3  
Old 09-24-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

Ya well, I don't want her messin up that pretty face so she doesn't go on the sled.

I'll take a look what's in there tomorrow or thursday.

Can I wear my normal-wintertime helmet?

Think I need some sort of tek-vest?
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  #4  
Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibreakstuff
Ya well, I don't want her messin up that pretty face so she doesn't go on the sled.

I'll take a look what's in there tomorrow or thursday.

Can I wear my normal-wintertime helmet?

Think I need some sort of tek-vest?
you can wear your winter helmet.... IF its a shield style one... your not going to want to wear a moto X style helmet...

MUST HAVES....

1. Teather... if you dont have one you need one... most places here wont let you race without one...

2. Tech Vest... Also seems to be a must have to race anymore.... again ive seen it in most rules lately

3... Id reccomend wearing some lightweight gloves.... bare hands on handle bars develope blisters fast.... not really what you want to do...

Ill look for some clutching shit for you too.... I have an idea of what to do... Im sure between Bulldog, Madcow and myself we can come up with something....
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  #5  
Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

I have a full-face modular helmet, so I'm good there.

Luckily I have an extra tether from a jetski that I bought and never put on.

Gloves are easy.

But where in the hell am I going to find a Tek-Vest for an ogre this quick?
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Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

I wish you luck bryan. Should you do good and want some more, Hastings snowshow is oct 13-15.
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  #7  
Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

I have been holding off on this becuase I have a fear that it will become an addiction.

Like all the crap I do isn't expensive enough. Even my girlfriend is knows - 'Isn't drag racing expensive?' she asks me. No, not in stock classes, local stuff. But we all know that won't last forever.


Shit.

But thanks for the luck, I'm sure I'll need it. At the least it will be some funny looking pictures for us to all laugh at.

Does anyone have a copy of the ISR rules? That's the set that these races go by.
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  #8  
Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

Back in the Day (when i was in High School) I did some drags with my Ultras and XLT's... Before you even consider setting up your clutch you need to learn how to tune your suspension. Once I learned them did this make clutch tuning easier. Once the suspension is tuned to "allow" the chassis pivot and transfer properly, and most important have the rebound valving tuned properly the suspension is easily calibrated for any snow condition; Then clutching becomes easy. Notice that key word "allow"
Tuners rarely if ever touch the suspension or even grease the damn thing for that matter, and then they try and clutch and clutch and have nothing but little success and much grief. I know this is successful path to follow and will argue to the end...suspension first, clutching later. Get the suspension to work the best it can to get you the lowest e.t. to the first corner with the clutching
you have...THEN, start to change the clutching.

When you can say to yourself..."My suspension is without a doubt at its best and gives me hole shot like 10" Then go change clutching. Once suspension works the same every time every time every time then you change clutching you see the improvement or failure right away. Clutching first then suspension tuning later... or clutching and not doing suspension is putting cart-before-horse understand bryan??

Ill explain this a little better assuming you are going with a flat senario.... Such as a groomed trail or a drag strip....


OK.....presuming this scenario is on a well groomed trail or on a flat drag strip.... weight transfer has a significant effect on your traction, clutch and engine loads. Keeping in mind your secondary is a torque sensing device...... Here are a few points to help you understand what im trying to say...

1.- a heavier rider puts more load on your engine, clutching and suspension. Simple physics - You will need to do more work to move a larger mass from point A to B.

2.- Think of where your weight is tranfered when the suspension goes from fully compressed to fully extended. Say after acceleration or obtaining top speed or heavy breaking or back shifting? Your weight goes from the "rear" to the "front" or from the track to the ski. Now it's not as prominent in this scenario but, that weight tranfer is happening.

3. - Generally speaking this weight tranfer (to the rear) increases your traction (more down force on the track), not withstanding trail conditions, track lug hight and design, traction control products and mass of the track it self.

4.- Now think of that in reverse when your weight is transferred to your skis... So, what is this weight transfer doing to your clutching and motor?

5. - Also think about the attack angles of your track with your suspension fully compressed or fully extended. Have you ever tried to pull / lift a large object on a small pulley? Quite a bit easier on a large pully no dought. Another reason why your seeing these big wheel kits in drags and hill climb races. Reduced attack angles...

6.- So in turn what do you think this high attack angle is doing to your clutching and motor?!?

Most people spend many years trying to figure out my clutching and never pay any attention to how their suspension effects not only their ride, but their clutching as well. It's only the past few years of riding where I have begun to appreciate what a well calibrated suspension can do for your clutching and all around performance of the sled. Hence forth why I belive you can put together a twin that will run right with the triples IF and Only if you have the WHOLE SLED set up right....

P.S still thinking on a clutch set up... IS the sled stock?



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  #9  
Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

The sled is completely stock, but has a "clutch kit" and jetted down one size. I don't know who makes the kit, I bought it the way it is. I'll get into it today or tomorrow and let you guys know what I have to work with.

This is the factory triple pipe, in case you didn't know.

I grease my suspension all the time. I had the skid out right before my last ride to change the slides, and checked it over. All bearings were smooth, new slides, and freshly greased.

In hard-pack when I punch it I get about 6 inches of ski lift. My track also spins a little though.
This is about right where I want to be on the snow but god knows what it will be like in the grass. I am studded with 144 on both the inside and outside bands, .875 lug.
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Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

I think that you will want to reduce the amount of ski lift, this will put more force into the rear of the track. Most successful dragsters are set very low in the front and have the ski suspension softened and lowered as well. Tying down(shortening) the front limiter strap will help here too.
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  #11  
Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by OCR
I think that you will want to reduce the amount of ski lift, this will put more force into the rear of the track. Most successful dragsters are set very low in the front and have the ski suspension softened and lowered as well. Tying down(shortening) the front limiter strap will help here too.
exactly... Bryan with the way your sleds set up now your going to flip over backwards...
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Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

I know, that's why I said "I'm not sure what this will do on the grass" meaning how bad it'd be.

I'm going to tighten the front limiter straps, and chain the front down LOW. With my weight on there I need to keep that front end down.

Do they let you practice at all first?
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibreakstuff
I know, that's why I said "I'm not sure what this will do on the grass" meaning how bad it'd be.

I'm going to tighten the front limiter straps, and chain the front down LOW. With my weight on there I need to keep that front end down.

Do they let you practice at all first?
Im not sure... dont you have a copy of the ISR rules yet?
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Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

Nope, look at post #6 above. I don't have a rulebook.

Anyone have one scanned into their computer?
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Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

It's online somewhere? Last winter someone gave me a linky for a pdf file. I'll see if I can find it.
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Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

Go to www.nsraracing.org that'll give you the general idea for rules.....
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Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

just do a google for it.
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Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

http://www.cosdra.com/Rules.htm
http://www.yzrp.com/rules.html
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  #19  
Old 09-25-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

Well I got an email.

Tek-vest and tether not necessary but suggested if running 800cc and larger class.
I'll put the tether on becuase I have it, and wear my motorcycle jacket. Better than nothing I guess.
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Old 09-26-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

Heres your setup bitch... Trust me.. this shit works...... I just had to find out some things before about the sled before I could give it to you..


To start with you need to gear it much lower. It is a heavy sled to get moving. Stock is 24/40 with a 68p hyvo chain. You should go to 21/42 or so, for 88 mph at 8250 rpm. 21/43, or 21/41 would be options depending on the gears you have. You want the rpm to run 8000 off the line then pull to 8250. Change the primary spring to a 280-300 shift out, such as an erlandson red or black. If you had studs, and good traction, even an erlandson silver. For the secondary, it is hard to say for sure, but a 46/36 epi progressive, possibly 42/36, with an epi silver spring should be ok. A 42/34 would likely work if that is all you can find. Often a polaris red spring wound to the 4th hole works well on the grass also. 10-54 or 10-56 weights, whichever are needed for the rpm. Change to a 3211075 overdrive belt, adding shims between the secondary halves if needed to obtain the 1.25" belt deflection. With whatever weights you are going to use, be sure the primary clutch belt to sheave clearance is no more than .020". Remove shims as necessary under the spider.

Jet the mains to 320 if 50-60F temps, and be sure to use good 91-93 octane fuel, no race gas, and BR9ES or RN2C plugs. Be sure the exhaust is sealed, use shim #7555764 under the tailpipe donuts to keep the springs tight. Use ultra black silicone to seal the outlet in the bellypan. You do not want any exhaust leaks. You may have to richen the needle one clip to prevent a lean bog off the line. Be sure the carbs are exactly in mechainical sync, and that the slides clear the bores of the carbs completely at full throttle, no slide in the bore at all. Leave the RRSS blocks in, in the rearward hole on low position, the FRSS on low as well. Adjust the rear torsion springs stiff if you has studs. Front ski springs with the preload backed off all the way, but just enough so the spring retainers do not fall off with the suspension fully extended. Practice launching sitting in the middle of the seat, then sliding rearward. Take the carbide runners off the skis, and put plain wearbars on, with no hard weld.

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Old 09-26-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

What classes are you going to be running in?? stock, improved stock?? if the races your gonna run in are gay like NSRA, if you go anything above stock your gonna get nailed with that 90 lb rule bullshit!!!
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Old 09-26-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

Fat Class.

The Fat without the PH.

This is all for fun - no winning anything. Less pressure - the email the guy wrote me said "we're just here to see people race... we'll get you out there no matter what"

The class I fit best into is: 700 triple factory stock

I also want to race in 700 improved and 800 stock. For practice.
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  #23  
Old 09-26-2007
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Default Re: Going to try grass drag racing...

sled fx is right on the gearing. for fun you arent going to be spending any money on a tool box of clutching. on big thing is a primary spring, an aaen gold or maroon would work good for grass. if you dont mess with jetting you can run it on a warm up stand right before you race. rev hard, brake hard, rev hard. do that cycle about 4-5 times and you will see the smoke shrink down and the motor start to be snappy. the aaen spring will give you high engagement so you can hold your rpms up to keep the motor clean until the light turns green. the little higher shift rate might have you a little high on rpms so you can probably see if you have a 600/700 xc buddy you could borrow his secondary clutch. you will easily be able to drop your needles one spot. and drop the mains from a stock 380 to a 320. but work your way down. I ran 420 on the trails and 320 on the 1000' ice. and 280 for summer time. but I used vp 98 octane fuel.
move your rear stops back to the farthest point. loosen your front springs all the way. pull down the front limiter straps and rear limiter straps. do a couple test runs to see if you need to loosen or tighten the front strap. loosen to get the front end up.

for a fun run I can see some gears and a primary spring,
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