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XTRA 10 Swap step by step

Snowmobile How-To's

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Old 09-28-2007
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Default XTRA 10 Swap step by step

I did not write this article but I found this article to be very intresting and a great help when swaping rear suspensions. A must read!!!

XTRA 10 Swap step by step

This article explains how you can swap a Polaris Xtra 10 suspention out of a newer snowmobile to an older snowmobile.

Note: This is one persons personal experience. Slednutz takes no responsibility in the accuracy of the information presented below.

Donor Sled: 2000 XC 700sp

Recipient sled: 1994 XCR 440

The measurements I used came from a 96 XCR 440 that came factory with an XTRA 10. If you’re unsure find a similar sled that came with an XTRA 10 and used those measurements. DON’T USE AN XTRA 12 AS THEY ARE COMPLETELY DIFFERENT.

You should be able to do this in an evening or two. You are going to need a big rivet gun, rivets or Stainless steel bolts and nylock nuts, drill, and other small common shop tools.

The biggest thing here is to measure accurately and make sure your measurements are square on both sides of the tunnel. Always measure from the top of the tunnel and not the foot board as this differs from year to year. The following instructions are from my own swap using the above sleds. I have sent this to several others on this form and they have had success as well.

To get the old plates off your best bet is to grind the rivets off from the inside of the tunnel as this won’t mark the part you can see. Once you get the old mounts off your going to have to modify the rear mounting plate to get around your cooler. If your original skid is either an XC 100 or XC 101 then your front plate is probably in the right spot as these skids were the predecessor the XTRA 10. Your front plate should be between (12"-13" back from the center of the jack-shaft). You will then have to drill new hole in the front mounting hole up to the next hole in the plate.

The measurement you need are as follows:

From center of Jack-shaft to center of front mounting hole - 12 1/2 " (if your off by 3/4" or less don't worry about it right now) and 4 1/4" down from the top of the tunnel (this is more important right now)

From the center of front mounting hole to the center of the rear mounting hole 23" (this is the important one) and 5 1/4 " from top of tunnel. Some people have told me that this varies from 22 ½ - 23 ½ depending on the sled.

Rivit the rear bracket on, put the new skid in, tighten the track as normal and your ready to hit the bumps. The measurement discrepancies that are within 1 inch can all be made up with the track tensioning adjustment.

That should be it. The biggest mistake people make doing this swap is the distance between the front and back holes. You could take that xtra 10 skid and bolt it into the sled with out changing any holes and it would fit but it wouldn’t work. The last few pictures are what the sled should look like once you’re done. You might also want to find a set of spindles from a 97, 98 or 99 and swap them out. They are about 1 1/2 longer and will raise the front of the sled putting more weight back on the skid. This helped my darting problem. I also filled the old holes with rivets and bolts so it looks good.

Finished results

Take your time and good luck. The results will be worth it.

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Old 12-11-2007
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Here is a link with the measurements.
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Old 12-12-2007
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And.....not sure of whether it was deserving of it's own "how to" thread, here is an article with pics I came across a few years ago that has proven to be very helpful in improving the XTRA 10 ride for us "trail burners". lol
Think for yourself.....................Question authority.
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Old 12-13-2007
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The Hog...Nice pic with the measurements.
Great article you found there RipN. I got a few friends that always talked about there Extra 10's sliding around when on loose snow over hard packed trail. I think they will be making some changes to there skids this weekend. Good catch!!!
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Old 12-14-2007
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I have a couple questions on this swap:

1. JBShocks measurements say that both the front and rear holes are 5 1/4" from the top of the tunnel. The other post says that the front holes should be 4 1/4" and the rears should be 5 1/4". Which one is correct? If both measurements work, how would the different locations effect handling and performance of the rear suspension?

2. I thought I'd read somewhere else that the measurements were from the driveshaft. If the measurements are from the jackshaft, do I just measure on the top of the tunnel, and drop straight down from that mark?
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