how to blue print your heads
when most people here of blue print they think spendy engine work, but the threory behind blue printing is just to get all cylinders the same. one thing to get to the same is the squish and compression.
but since this is for the average trail rider lets just keep it to getting squish the same.
therew is a difference between blue printing your heads and just haveing a set amount taken off all of them. the difference is that youre engine is mass produced, there are tolerances on each part, the rod, piston, cylinder and head, if each item is +/- .001 you can easily have a +/- .004" between cylinders for squish. most of the time they are pretty close.
how i like to do it is pretty simple. drain the water and remove water jacket or head covers, then remove the head, take a piece of flux core soldier, two piece about a 1/2" long. roll the first piston to about a 1/4" below the top of the cylinder, lay the two pieces in there, one on the left and one on the right, lay them so they are against the wall of the cylinder pointing front to back not to the center. bolt the head back on and snug it down. grab the clutch and roll the engine over, you will feel it get stiff then free, remove head and measure the thickness. chances are it will be like a .065 or .055". then just right on the head with marker how much you want to remove, so if you want to be at .055" and the first one comes in at .063" then you remove .008" and right 8 on the head, then move to the other cylinders. just make sure you number the heads either pto, mag, cntr or number 1,2,3 so you put them back in the same spots.
reassemble engine and take it for a ride.
If the boner police are here I need a lawyer.
in a time of deciet telling the truth is a revolutionary act. george orwell.
aint no body ripin like me. M to the a-d-c-o-w. rock it hard for my fly ladies. I rock it yes in deed
. homies still roll with me. money dont change me
nothing goes like 3 holes.
high performance engineering