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bog issue

Tuning

 
 
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  #1  
Old 03-18-2009
indy400
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Unhappy bog issue

Just finished doing a complete rebuild of my 91 indy 400. Rebuilt the motor (new crank bearings pistons and rings), chain case and jack shaft bearings, fuel lines. It started right away. running mixed gas for the first tank. I cleaned the carbs and syncronized them. It idles and runs great until about 1/4 throttle, then it bogs. Cleaned the carbs again and still the same. Though it may be timing but I marked it before I took it apart and I double checked that it was in the same spot. Any sugestions any one.

Last edited by indy400 : 03-18-2009 at 10:59 AM.
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  #2  
Old 03-18-2009
mach1
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is one cylinder hotter then the other?
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  #3  
Old 03-18-2009
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I realize it's a stupid question, but did you put the drain plugs back in the block?
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  #4  
Old 03-18-2009
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Floats set correctly, needle valves not sticking?
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  #5  
Old 03-18-2009
indy400
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Both cylinders are the same temprature. The drain plugs are in. The needle valves are not sticking. Never checked the float, but I was carefull when I pulled them apart and put them back together, plus I never had this issue before the rebuild.
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  #6  
Old 03-18-2009
mach1
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i got an idea just try it,ok start it up and unplug the valcume line to the crank case,and run untill it dies. then plug it back in.i had a 89 500 that i rebuilt and i had the same problem,it could be flooded.
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  #7  
Old 03-19-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach1 View Post
i got an idea just try it,ok start it up and unplug the valcume line to the crank case,and run untill it dies. then plug it back in.i had a 89 500 that i rebuilt and i had the same problem,it could be flooded.
Sorry if this sounds ignorrant, but what will that do? Wouldn't that lean it out? I supose that it wouldn't run long enough to cause damage. Right

Could this problem be from the engine sucking in air from some where, and if so how can I check that? Maybe spray some ether or something else around the seals and gasket areas.
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  #8  
Old 03-19-2009
mach1
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all it would do is strave it for gas,its not going to hurt it at all,fuck it if you dont want to listen to me,ive only been working on sleds for about 15 years
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  #9  
Old 03-19-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy400 View Post
Maybe spray some ether or something else around the seals and gasket areas.
You got it. Fire it up and spray some starting fluid around the seals and carb boots, if it revs up you have a leak.
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  #10  
Old 03-19-2009
indy400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach1 View Post
all it would do is strave it for gas,its not going to hurt it at all,fuck it if you dont want to listen to me,ive only been working on sleds for about 15 years
Hey relax, I'm new to this site and trouble shooting stuff so I'm just asking questions. I didn't mean to ofend you. Sorry if I did. How am I suposed to know that you have worked on sleds for 15 years?
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  #11  
Old 03-20-2009
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Ok, heres where I am at. Took the vacuum hose off the crank case and waited till it stalled. Didn't help. Paid closer attention to the rpm. The primary clutch doesn't engage until 4200rpm. it starts to bog around 6500 - 6800 rpm and it won't go past 7000rpm. Now, I know verry little about clutches, but is it possible that its getting the fuel to go faster but the clutches won't let it, so it starts to flood and bog. Just a thought. Like I said I know very little about clutches.
Haven't picked up ant starting fluid yet so I haven't tried the leak test yet. I will get some today.
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2009
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The clutches sticking can cause a nasty bog and you can chase it through the carbs forever and never get rid of it.
A thorough cleaning is an option that many have missed due to thinking that it was an engine problem rather than a drive train problem.
Cleaning both units should be part of your annual maintenance either preseason, or post season storage prep.
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'93 Wildcat 700EFI w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid


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  #13  
Old 03-20-2009
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Thanks, that is what I was hoping to here. I will clean them and try again. Thanks
Whats the best way to clean them and will I have to take them completly apart to do it right?
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  #14  
Old 03-20-2009
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Take the belt off and blow out the units then use some brake cleaner on the insides then blow out again.
Try them and see if it works better, if not, you will have to disassemble them for a better cleaning, in which case, I would use hot water and dish soap and then rinse with hot again to flush them out.
Use a dry lube (Comet clutch lube) only on the weight pivot points and the rollers and center shaft bushing.
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Old Cat Rider

'93 Wildcat 700EFI w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid


http://twintiersleddin.proboards76.com/index.cgi


Quote:
we are all given sh*t in life, but some of us learn to turn it into fertilizer and grow from it, and some us try to fling it on others like monkeys
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  #15  
Old 03-21-2009
indy400
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Thanks OCR.
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  #16  
Old 04-27-2009
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Check both clutches. springs, buttons - any of the worn parts can bog your engine. If you have too much loosiness play in the primary, it could be the culprit. Or belt is too thin could be another issue. WL
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