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1990 Indy 500 info

Polaris General Discussion

 
 
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  #1  
Old 12-13-2009
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Default 1990 Indy 500 info

I was wondering where I can find info on like what plastic ski's I could fit on the front of a 1990 Indy 500? Also I am new to all of this so any help is very much appreciated. I am just looking to do some minor this to this sled to help it keep up on the trails. I will be going through the clutches on it and putting in diff. weights and springs. I work with a guy who races vintage sleds and he said if I get my clutching set up good it will help a lot. How much truth is there to this? It engages and 4100 rpm which he said is "sad". I have never seen his sleds run so I guess your guys opinion would help a lot.
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  #2  
Old 12-14-2009
mach1
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go to dennis kirk.if you have good steel skis just put ski skins on there cheaper then plastic skis,but i was looking for my self yesterday and they have camoplasts plastic skis,those are the cheapest
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  #3  
Old 12-14-2009
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Just about any plastic ski will work on any chassis provided you have the correct ski saddle.

example, if you were to order "SLP straight line tracking plastic skis" you would also need to order "saddle bracket, 1980 newer indy, all edge" and a set of "ski loops" and carbide wear bar, most people like the 6" carbides.

Most places have ski packages for you to order where you don't need to order each part separately.


Clutching;
4100 rpm is fine for a trail sled. The reason the vintage racer you talked to said it was sad is because he is racing his sleds, he needs them to engage at much higher rpm in order to take off quickly. But that makes them very unfriendly as a trail sled.
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  #4  
Old 12-14-2009
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I went riding yesterday and it was at about 5000rpm holding that going down the ditch. To me I seem to remember riding like a 92-93 indy that my buddy had and it had a lot more rpm in it going down the trail. But that was some time ago so I could be mistaken.

As for the ski's the reason I was thinking going to plastic was to just lighten it up a bit. The steel ones have fairly new carbides on it. Is it worth it to buy some plastics? I am basically just learning on what is worth modding on this thing. I don't want to be the fastest sled out there but something that can keep up a little better.
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  #5  
Old 12-14-2009
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Plastic skis are one of the single best things you can add to a sled that came without them. Not only for weight, but easier steering and better flotation.
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  #6  
Old 12-17-2009
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Sorry for the long post. Your buddy will have a bunch of good stuff. I run 2 indy 500's and an Indy trail ('89, '90 and '91 respectively).

Everyone is different, and truly the mods you make are dependent upon what you want to do and what condition your sled is currently in and its setup.

If you have a good base to start with. No warn parts (chain, gears, clutches, bearings, tired engine), I go in this order. These are the items and order I look at: engine (including cooling and air), gearing, clutching(driver/driven), suspension, ski's.

Engine: shave 10k off a stock head. clean-up (don't port) the intake and exhaust ports. check cylinder cross hatch. Compression doesn't tell you everything. Have cylinders honed and get new rings. Replace pistons if there is any damage. Run the tolerances close on pistons. Just remember to let the motor warm up!!!!!! Move the cooling to the back of the tunnel for better cooling. Remove the coolers from the running boards. Use the tubes to run cooling to the tunnel cooler. I run 100% coolant and 1 bottle of water-wetter. Gut the airbox and add holes to the gas tank side allowing cooler air in. Add prefilters. Increase jet size atleast 2 sizes from stock. Adjust as needed per piston wash and plug burn. I run 9's for plugs. I carry 9's and 8's. If the temp warms up, I put in the 8's (8's run hotter and cleans up some of the extra fuel - no rejetting).

Gearing: Replace all bearings with good (not cheap/not expensive) bearings! This will help you next year. You may only have to replace 1 or 2 and not all of them. Trail riding we run 19/43 gears. replace the oil every year. I do it at the end of the year incase moisture gets in. Check it before you go on your first ride the following year. Check the gears for wear and the chain as well. Adjust chain tension as needed. (trying out 22/43 and 136x1.5 track).

Clutching: I go through the clutches every year. I may not replace everything, but at least I know what is not needed. I don't run more than 2 years on springs. Driver clutch I run a 140-320/120-300 spring with 10mb/10mw cams depending upon what I am doing and elevation. Driven clutch I run a r11 or 36 degree. I run a red spring in the second position. Make sure you go thru the secondary clutch and replace buttons/etc as needed.


Suspension: I replaced the suspensions with x-tra10. You can find the x-tralite ones, but you will pay more. I remove all wheels except the front 2 and then make the back run 4 wheels. Make sure all bars are aluminum unless you jump! When assembling suspension, use blue lock-tight. Change to hyperfax. I always run scratchers, just in case unless it is fresh snow. Adding an xtra-10 you have to move the mounting holes 3/4" out if I recall correctly. I didn't change the front end except for the shocks to something I could rebuild. You can use and XC/RMK which raises the front and gives adjustable spring tension.

Ski's: I ran metal skis until I could find the ski's I wanted. Try different friends sleds with their skis. Find out what their weight setup is (60/40). Until you find something you like, run a skag that has carbide! I purchased aluminum skis and several different sets of different plastic skis.


In addition to the above, your preference on seat, handle bar height, handlebars and winshield will play a lot to how much you enjoy the sled. It could be setup with the latest stuff, but if it doesn't fit, you won't enjoy it!

As a for instance, I liked the sound of twin pipes on these motors. My son thinks they are obnoxious.

Again, the above is just stuff I do. What you do will be different! The biggest thing is ride it! You won't know what you like until you know what you don't like!

Have fun, ride safe and with the track side down..

Rich
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  #7  
Old 12-18-2009
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I will be riding mostly trails and ditches. This year the sled is gonna remain how it is. My bro in law added in different gears and stupid me I didn't count the teeth to figure out what they were. Anyhow I need to pull the gear cover back off because it is leaking anyhow. This summer I plan on going through everything on the sled. I just want it to be a little more peppy on the trails until I can afford a newer trail sled and make this one my project.

Thanks for the info Rich.
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  #8  
Old 12-18-2009
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put magic marker in both clutches and see it it gets rubbed off top to bottom on both. if not you need some changes.
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  #9  
Old 12-21-2009
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So I rode the sled the other day and it just does not seem like it was in the power band at all. As I said before it was just floating at like 5000 rpm and only going about 40mph in not too deep snow. It was 20 degrees out and I weigh only 175lbs so I know I can't be weighing this thing down too much. Could the tuning be off on it? When I hit it on a flat hard packed surface it wants to go but still seems kind of doggy. Now I am not used to riding faster sleds at all as this is my first. So any and all help would be cool.
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  #10  
Old 12-21-2009
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Should pull a lot harder than that. What color are your plug after running?
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  #11  
Old 12-23-2009
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Not sure I will check that out.
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  #12  
Old 12-23-2009
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I have a 1994 Polaris 600 triple. I have bought camoplast skies and have been nothing but happy with them. They are light, durable and all and all pretty tough from what I have got them into...
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  #13  
Old 12-23-2009
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my old 92 indy trail deluxe would only do 45 pinned,all you got to do is change the gears
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  #14  
Old 12-23-2009
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If my '91 Indy 400 is any indication, this 500 should be able to hit 80 to 85 on the speedometer. (If it is liquid cooled) I'd say that you have problems with your secondary clutch. If you're engaging at 4,100, the primary is probably more-or-less working, but the secondary is not doing the job if you're only at 5,000 RPM. Someone else tell me the exact operating RPM, but I would say it should be between 7,500 and 8,000 RPM.
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  #15  
Old 12-23-2009
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rode my 94 500 yesterday and watched. clutch comes in around 4000 and engine winds up to 7800rpm. 500s depending on year are 7800 older and newer 8000rpm. I was hitting an easy 75mph, rough ground so I was paying less and less attention to speedo as I went faster. need to set up the GPS, it will give a top speed and I can look it up later LOL secondary in 3rd hole, new belt and reshimed for new belt with some help from you guys, THANKS!
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  #16  
Old 12-23-2009
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Well, it sounds as if you have it nearly dialed in perfect.
If I can think of any more tweaks, I'll let you know.
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2009
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'90 INDY 500 full throttle operating range 7700 RPM +/- 200.
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  #18  
Old 12-25-2009
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Well I am going to ride it today and will let you all know what it does. Thanks for the help.
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  #19  
Old 12-30-2009
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I was wondering if I get the camoplast skis. I need the mount kit but can I use the carbides off of my steel skis. They are only one season old.
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  #20  
Old 01-01-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SabaII View Post
Well I am going to let you all know what it does.

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  #21  
Old 01-01-2010
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Ha ha sorry. I rode it in a little bit colder weather and it seemed to run a lot better. But when I do ride through a field or ditch it still likes to hang around about 5200 now. It is a little better but I still think I have a problem.
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  #22  
Old 01-01-2010
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5,200 RPM is just sad. That isn't even close to working right. Get that thing running well.
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  #23  
Old 01-01-2010
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Pull Off Lake And Repair In Summer
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  #24  
Old 01-01-2010
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Shouldn't it be revving up to redline and then accelerating from there? Right now it revs up and goes but then the rpm settles down and 5200 is about where it sits. On a flat ground it revs up and goes. Rpm drop and then steadily climb but once it hits like 6200 it takes off pretty good up to redline. So do you think that is a problem in the clutching?
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  #25  
Old 01-01-2010
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I don't know much about clutching, but what you seem to be saying doesn't sound good at all. If the clutching works, when you pinch it, it should immediately climb to the optimum operating RPM which should be 7,800 RPM, and the RPM should stay there while you gain speed. Deep snow will make you lose some RPM if the clutches are set up for trails.

What shape is your belt in?
How does it do when it's up on a stand?
Is the throttle opening all the way?
Do the sheaves on the secondary clutch move freely, and can you feel smooth spring resistance?

I'm not much of a performance or modding person, but it would drive me up a wall if my sled only turned 5,200 RPM. I don't know exact numbers, but if that Indy 500 motor makes 70 HP, you're probably only getting 35 HP at 5,200 RPM.

Forget about plastic skis and mods until you get this thing at least close to running right.
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