Here is a Wolfie-style how-to on Polaris Swaybar removals, complete with some miserable cell-phone quality pictures with terrible lighting!
My sled is a 2001 Polaris Indy 500, with Edge rear suspension.
- 2 - 5/8" wrenches or sockets
- 3/16" or similar drill bit
- Decent light source
- Handy lift system
- Extra set of hands
- Extra drill bit
Here we go.
The first step is to look at your swaybar and realize that it's bent all to crap. I could tell this because while the sled was at rest, the left side (brake side if you're sitting on the machine) was sitting visibly lower than the right. It also handled pretty poorly in rough conditions, and tipped over to the left ridiculously often. The other dead giveaway was that one end of the bar was pushing against the top of the trailing arm bracket thinger on the left side, while the other end was pushing down against the bottom of the bracket on the right side when the sled was on a flat surface.
Just get on with it already Wolfie.
Okay okay, sorry. So it's bent to crap. Nuts. You have two options at this point. I'll cover both. You can either unbolt the trailing arm, or drill out the rivets holding the bushing around the swaybar.
So tell me how!
The next step is to unbolt the rear of the trailing arm where it attaches to the sled. This bolt is found near the footwell, and is really really really hard to miss. It's also really really easy to access. 5/8" head.
The nut can be found inside the tunnel, right in front of this big bar that (I believe) the drive wheel thingers are on. Beings as I am small, I had a heck of a time trying to get this loosened. I eventually crammed myself half under the sled somehow (to keep it from rolling away on the dollies) and used my foot to push against the ratchet. If you're a normal sized person, this won't really be much of a problem.
Once that nut is off, I started pulling on the trailing arm. It didn't want to pull out that easily, so I hooked my handy lift system to the front bumper to take some of the weight off. Things came out a lot easier. Remember to leave the trailing arm close to the body of the sled while you pull the bolt out. If you don't, things get out of alignment and jam up.
Just keep pulling until the end of the swaybar comes out of the trailing arm and slide bushing (If yours is still there. Mine wasn't.)
I tried to help the end of the swaybar out of the trailing arm by pushing on it instead of just pulling the trailing arm all the way out. This was stupid since there was a great deal of tension on that swaybar. It resulted in three knuckles getting bashed against one of the radius arms, which hurt a lot. Just pull the stupid trailing arm out all the way. It's easier anyways.
Well, that was stupid of you.
Thanks, I know. Now the swaybar is out of the trailing arm on one side.
Next, you get to drill out the three rivets holding the plastic bushing that the swaybar runs through. It is mounted to the bulkhead. Things are kinda close quarters in there, especially trying to get a drill in there at a straight angle. Be careful not to ruin the protective rubber thing.
Drill the heads out/off. This may be tougher than most rivets, since the Polaris manual says they are higher strength than the average bear. This is where you might end up using that extra drill bit, since I happened to break the very tip off of the first one I used. Some of them will be a real bugger to get out.
Use a punch (or appropriately sized nail) and the hammer to push them the rest of the way through. This will be easy if you managed to drill the heads straight.
Once out, that bushing will side right off. Mine had some super secret code hidden behind it, reading "ADANAC" with a set of foreign looking numbers. OMGosh!!! Secret codes!!! Exciting!!!
I guess it was just Canada. That's sorta lame.
Alright. Now that's off, you can do the other side! Instead of undoing the trailing arm like the first side, just drill out the rivets holding the bushing on. When that's loosened up, you can pull the swaybar out of the slide bushing/trailing arm bracket. To get the swaybar entirely pulled out, some wiggling is needed. It helps to rotate the end up towards the handlebars (as if you were turning it upside down) before trying to pull it through.
It was really a non-event (except for smashing my knuckles, and having some really really stubborn rivets). I'm not good at wrenching, and managed this task. There is a pretty good chance that you can too.
Here's pictures of the carnage (and my dad showing off his Wolverine boots). Things were a little tweaked.