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polaris 121 to 133.5 swap

Polaris General Discussion

 
 
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  #1  
Old 09-15-2010
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Default polaris 121 to 133.5 swap

Hi new to the site. I have a 1990 Indy 650 that I am trying to swap from the 121 to a 133. anyone have the dimentions for the mounting holes? I've looked at jbshocks but couldnt find anything. any help or info would be greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 09-16-2010
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Might be a stupid question but why swap to 133.3"? Odd swap is why I ask, 136" tracks are alot more common and I believe for the lesser price tag. I'm assuming you already have a 133.5" track and that's why?

Anyways.....
Are you planning to use the same suspension or a different suspension? If your sticking with the same suspension I'd save yourself a headache and just buy an extension for your skid. Otherwise if you plan in install a different suspension we'll need to know what it is to give the propper advise.

Edit: Welcome to the site too lol.
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Last edited by Gotmud : 09-16-2010 at 09:13 AM.
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  #3  
Old 09-16-2010
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swapping to the 133.5 cause I found one for 75$ It's in good shape. Also found pretty much a brand new camoplast 133 at haydays for 150. The 133.5 skid is out of a 96 sks. I was going to just go with the 136 swap but the suspension I had in the sled was shot.
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Old 09-16-2010
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from what i was told you can run at 136 with that skid with larger wheels.

i have same track and skid. tore off 2 lugs last season, thinking about putting 136 on...
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  #5  
Old 09-16-2010
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^^ Your correct.

Your new skid is an extra10 skid so this is mounting locations.
http://jbshocks.com/x10mount.jpg
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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #6  
Old 09-16-2010
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Put the skid under the sled, bolt the front in, use an engine hoist to level the back, mark your holes and move the mounts. Done.
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Old 09-16-2010
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^^ The front holes are the same? I doubt it. If you want the suspension to work properly I wouldn't do that.
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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #8  
Old 09-16-2010
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If I remember right, when I was doing my swap I found that all the front mounts are the same except the edge/iq.
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  #9  
Old 09-16-2010
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No I don't think you remember right lol. I only compared a couple but they were different.
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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Originally Posted by Rubi View Post
Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #10  
Old 09-16-2010
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wouldn't I have to be moving the mounts back for the longer skid? with those dimensions it would be moving it forward.
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  #11  
Old 09-16-2010
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If you've got both skids, pull the 121 out and set them up side by side. You should at least be able to eyeball whether one skid is farther back or forward.
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Old 09-16-2010
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I think it needs to be moved forward, but I also agree with what Posersledder said. Lay them next to each other and see where the front lies.
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

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Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #13  
Old 09-16-2010
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ok. thanks guys. i'll have to wait till tomorrow. class starts soon. get to go do some welding today.
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  #14  
Old 09-16-2010
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Dont do that haha.. Ive done something similar, except i changed the 133 down to a 121. I still have the chassis, i can tell you that you do have to move the rear mounts. There SHOULD be either holes, or markings on the inside of the front brackets allowing you to drill them out to move the hole up or down one spot. You will most likely need to do that. Send me a PM if you need that cuz i know i will forget and i havent been on here lately.
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  #15  
Old 09-16-2010
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^^About damn time you came out of early retirement, welcome back.
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"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi View Post
Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
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  #16  
Old 09-16-2010
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Thanks mud.

I helped somebody with this same exact thing before so i actually have the pics still i do believe.. I hope this helps, cuz i dont have a camera anymore to take new pics.

This shows the front hole. Remember i have two holes cuz i drilled it out due to changing the suspensions. The top hole should be the one for the 133, the bottom one with the bolt in it is from having the 121 in it.. Both were xtra 10 suspensions and im now realizing your sled did not have xtra 10 haha.. EIther way, the new skid should be xtra 10 if its from a 96? Hopefully its not an xtra 12, its easy to tell if it is tho.

Hopefully you can figure it out, some of the pics just show to know where i meaured from.




center to center from front to back hole...


Please keep in mind this rear hole uses a drop bracket. If you dont use the drop bracket i am not sure it will work as it should? I would get the brackets if you do not already have them. There are two big holes in the brackets, one bolts into the tunnel hole as seen in the pics and the other the suspension bolts to.

I dono but i hope this helps some and hopefully i didnt type it out too fucked up so you can understand it haha
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2010
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And just a reminder again, These measurements are for a 133.5" xtra 10 suspension with drop brackets in the rear.
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  #18  
Old 09-16-2010
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thanks that is a huge help!!
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  #19  
Old 09-17-2010
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All your measurements need to be taken from the center of the driveshaft to the holes, and from the top of the tunnel down to the hole. Footwell to holes don't matter, hole to hole doesn't matter, etc. If the center of the driveshaft to the hole is the same then you're fine doing it the way I said. Lay the 2 skids next to each other and line them up by the front of the rails. If the mount holes in the skid are the same in the front then again, do it my way. If the new skid has the mounts farther back, move the holes on the tunnel the same amount. If it's in front, move them forward.
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Old 09-18-2010
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While you may be right on the first part about the driveshaft to hole... Im pretty sure the center to center on the holes DO matter, is that not what makes the skid work right? If the center to center distance is not correct the skid wont work worth a shit as far as i know..
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  #21  
Old 09-18-2010
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Maybe a poor choice of words... Center to Center does matter, but if your reference point is off or no correct reference every other measurement can be correct and be useless....

The only point that matters is the center of driveshaft and top tunnel down. Those are the two points constant between sleds. All measurements need to start there.
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Old 09-18-2010
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Well the driveshaft to front hole SHOULD be able to be used from something else, such as an xtra 10 121" skid or whatever, so jbshox can help with that i think. The center to center should be in my pics. Also the placement for the front hole as far as up and down ways, i can measure from the top of the tunnel to the center of the hole if that would help?
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  #23  
Old 09-18-2010
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What i'm saying is, get the hole in front correct, slightly compress the back (about 3/4 of an inch), mark the holes and mount them. The only holes that need to stay the same from the donor sled are the C to C.
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  #24  
Old 09-18-2010
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I measured the distance from where yours was and it's pretty close to where my front hole is. just haven't had time to go out and drill everything yet. my buddie just got married tonight and went out the night before. hopefully tomorrow tho.
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  #25  
Old 09-25-2010
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I am having some issues with the 133 skid. maybe its just cause I don't have it in the sled yet but when i depress the suspension the torsion springs pop off. the blocks are off in the rear but i thought you could run without them.
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