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How do these plugs look?

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  #1  
Old 01-11-2011
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Default How do these plugs look?

my shop manual shows pics of a good burning plug, problem is they are in black and white... do these look like it is leaned correctly? these are new plugs after about a mile of riding.
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  #2  
Old 01-11-2011
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The plug to the nearest the crook of your hand is a lil lean, middle about perfect and the one to the furthest right is a skoosh lean....thats my opinion tho. I run my stuff a lil rich...cheaper to buy plugs than rebuild a top end.
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2011
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Middle is OK, left and right are lean.
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  #4  
Old 01-11-2011
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You should probably do a plug chop.
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  #5  
Old 01-11-2011
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I'm agree w/ Brian... Plugs cheap compared to a rebuild on Tripple....

outer ones are trending lean and if you go WOT for a good run they will potentially get pretty damm hot...
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2011
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is that a matter of just dropping the e-clip on the needle one notch or is a screw adjustment. I was looking through my manual and didnt see anything in the carb section about adjusting mixture.
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lfreng View Post
is that a matter of just dropping the e-clip on the needle one notch or is a screw adjustment. I was looking through my manual and didnt see anything in the carb section about adjusting mixture.
ya what i means is the air mixture screws have vibrated loose a tad from the last time those carbs were SYNC'ed.....they need to be SYNC'ed again IMO.....less air is richer.....so either count the turns till it stops uopn tightening and then write down each ones....then take the one that was OK and set the others to that setting AS LONG AS its about 1/8 turn or less witin the others....if there wacky and each has its own setting which is rare, then you either take it in to someone that knows what their doing or you put baby food jars in the line on each carb and fire it up and see the level in each jar....crude but effective....just a tad black is gooder....bestest....etc
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Old 01-11-2011
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jars, can you expand on that, is there an explanation in sled nutz somewhere?
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lfreng View Post
jars, can you expand on that, is there an explanation in sled nutz somewhere?
trust me.....you DONT want an explantion from one of these dudes
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  #10  
Old 01-11-2011
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the jars thing is for if you have no other means and are out in the woods or like to GOLDBERG STUFF and you need em SYNC'ed....so its a last resort dude....but basically you do this

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=34376

like so

http://www.daraq.com/Bike/10dollar_carb_sync.pdf

then pat youself on back for being a true HILLY BILLY....but hey....carbs are SYNC'ed eh?
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  #11  
Old 01-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lfreng View Post
my shop manual shows pics of a good burning plug, problem is they are in black and white... do these look like it is leaned correctly? these are new plugs after about a mile of riding.
When you pulled the plugs out to check, was it after you let it idle from a run?
Or did you hold it WOT and hit the kill?
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  #12  
Old 01-11-2011
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pulled in garage and killed it. Didnt know about the plug chop method. I can try that this afternoon.
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZLZEBUB View Post
ya what i means is the air mixture screws have vibrated loose a tad from the last time those carbs were SYNC'ed.....they need to be SYNC'ed again IMO.....less air is richer.....so either count the turns till it stops uopn tightening and then write down each ones....then take the one that was OK and set the others to that setting AS LONG AS its about 1/8 turn or less witin the others....if there wacky and each has its own setting which is rare, then you either take it in to someone that knows what their doing or you put baby food jars in the line on each carb and fire it up and see the level in each jar....crude but effective....just a tad black is gooder....bestest....etc
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  #14  
Old 01-11-2011
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if its lean at idle you can try dropping the clip or going up on the pilot jet. lean at wot you need to go up on mains.
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  #15  
Old 01-11-2011
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Going 1 up on the clip should make it richer on every level idle to wot. What jets are you running and at what temp.
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  #16  
Old 01-11-2011
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Lean at idle, you turn the air screw in 1/8 turn.
Needle is for 1/4 to 3/4 throttle and then the main takes over to WOT.
You need to do chops for these three ranges to get your jetting right.
Take new plugs to put in for each test range.
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  #17  
Old 01-11-2011
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not getting into pissin match with OCR but forget that plug chop method.....too many variables in a sled....here read why

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/arc...p/t-22069.html

a better way IMO is to take off the boots....hold down throttle with sled off.....look into each bore of each carb....that slide should be flush with the top of each bore.....then let that go....hook up boots again.....turn in each screw till stops....record each settings turns.....now turn out each one specs of said sled....usually 7/8 but can be different.....then fire up machine and run around....now check plug color....should all be black a little and good to go
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  #18  
Old 01-11-2011
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LFRENG -
Please ignore Zlzebub, and everything he incoherently babbles. Up to this point his mindless dribble has been harmless but I will be sending him a PM shortly. Unfortunately I don't take to 'banning' people easily but if he continues to give people such as yourself poor advice I really don't have a choice.

Plug chops and piston wash are the preferred method of checking the fuel to air mixture if you don't have a wideband fuel/air ratio gauge.

You also need to know that it takes a while to color the plugs, but if the middle is colored properly then you have a lean condition on your MAG and PTO cylinders. To test them, please perform a plug chop starting with 1/8 throttle, then 1/2 throttle, then WOT. Make sure you start with the 1/8 throttle as it is less likely to burn you down. If you don't know what piston wash is, it's the pattern of carbon to clean piston done when looking down a sparkplug hole. You want your clean portion of the piston top to be between a pinky nail and thumbnail - yes the nails of your fingers. Smaller (or non existent) patches at the ports means you're running lean. BIG wash - as in the perimeter of the piston dome clean - means you're rich. Not necessarily a bad thing unless you're looking for that extra 1hp or fouling plugs. NOT you also need to know that the top of the piston with a little carbon and looking burned (not "wet") means you're running VERY lean - but I doubt that in this case after seeing your plugs.

Make sure your carbs are clean, intake boots tight and sealed, and your oil seals don't leak.
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  #19  
Old 01-11-2011
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If you can look in to see the pistons, this is what you're looking for

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  #20  
Old 01-11-2011
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o i forgot that there is only one way to do things...man you dudes are uptight....its called ADVICE and or an OPINION IB.....wow....relax a little....or....dont do it that way....big deal.....its easier to check that than to buy many jets ya dont need.....not to mention theres altitude, humidity, and all kinds of other factors in a snowmobile when chopping....how bout this.....let him read this shit and then decide which one he wants to try first....maybe he'll do both....i dunno....thusly its called a thread

PS....i dont think he's mad about any of this advice dude....but you sure are
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  #21  
Old 01-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZLZEBUB View Post
trust me.....you DONT want an explantion from one of these dudes
I think you should refrain from making comments like these if you want to stay on this site. Advice on sleds here is second to none.
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  #22  
Old 01-12-2011
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appreciate all the info. I dont have time to do alot of work on this thing. I am heading up to do some ice fishing tomorrow and taking this sled with to haul a pop up. What can I do to richen up #1 and #3 enough to not have to worry about burning anything up. We wont be riding hard or fast. Just hole to hole and to the cabin. be it drop the eclip or turn an air screw. I cant take the time to get more indepth when i get back. Can I add a little oil to the gas and have a little premix going in with the injection to protect it more?
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  #23  
Old 01-12-2011
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^^^^^^^^^^^
Then some plug chops and look at the piston wash will be your best bet and will prevent damage if done correctly.
Sure, having the specialty tools would be nice to do the job with, but who here wants to spend that kind of money for trail sleds. If you were a professional racer/rider, it would be worth it, but otherwise not.
For the DIYer like most of us, the old tried and true (plug chop) method is a good way to get best performance with little expense.
Do the procedure as IBS has said.
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  #24  
Old 01-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lfreng View Post
Can I add a little oil to the gas and have a little premix going in with the injection to protect it more?
Someone else can maybe put better words to this, but adding more oil will "lean" out your mixture further. More oil = less gas.

If you're worried, follow the advice of the members here (Zeezle's really really hit and miss so far. I don't recommend that you listen to too much of what he says).

Raise your needles or switch out your jets to richen the mixture a little.
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  #25  
Old 01-12-2011
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How much were you considering mixing?
If you want to just use some as a safety margin until you are sure of the oil use/injection pump, I would only mix 100:1 .
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