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89 Indy Classic 500 - The Saga begins

Polaris General Discussion

 
 
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  #1  
Old 01-29-2013
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Default 89 Indy Classic 500 - The Saga begins

If no one objects, I'm going to use this thread to keep a running journal of my new experience in "tuning up" an archaic machine. I did this when I tinkered on my old Ford Ranger last year and I found it not only therapeutic, but it was awesome when experienced tinkerers, gearheads and grease monkeys chimed in with knowledge, anecdotes and advice.

So quick back story.. the sled went up for sale fairly locally on Facebook.. for a pittance. The only "major" issue was a leaky oil tank. The seller had pre-mixed the gas and the thing started fine, and other than bogging down a little, I felt I'd found a diamond in the rough. Besides.. I figured out a truck engine, I can figure out this damn thing too, right? :-)

So some tinkering, some vacuuming and some cleaning later, I brought the sled home with me (I was at work when I got the sled and parked it in an empty ambulance bay for warmth) and really started on it.

First, I pulled the oil tank... found the leaks along the seam where the brass nipple screws in.. someone gorilla'd it.. some plastic weld and a hose clamp later, got that fixed and back in the sled.

I started screwing around with the electrical, but screw it. With premix in the tank and the oil tank full, way too much smoke. And yes, it's oil smoke.

So I decided to pull the carbs tonight and clean those out... a couple hours later and they are clean and shiny and back in the sled. Once I remembered to turn the fuel back on, the sled started up and is running a smidge better than before. Bad news though, it looks like one of the gaskets is shot.. leaking gas everywhere out of one of the carbs. I'm assuming gasket, but I suppose it could be the tube on the bottom.. either way, it's dark, I'm cold and am calling it a night.

My punchlist to make this girl scream again:

Fix that leak
  • Drain the little bit of premix out of the tank
  • Add some fresh fuel with some Seafoam
  • Run it awhile
  • Change the plugs
  • Run it some more

If she's still bogging down, I guess it's time to learn how to clean/repair a clutch. The belt is "about" even with the clutch bit closest to the driver (sheave? secondary?).. it looks either even or maybe 1/16" "lower", if that... but unless I've got some momentum, it bogs down and I smell belt.. so I'm assuming clutch.

Although... the "bogging" seems to only happen on low throttle... hrmmm..

We'll get this figured out.
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  #2  
Old 01-29-2013
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It's a good idea to start with fresh gas, but I'd start with a few gallons of fresh premix in the tank until you verify that the oil injection is working properly.
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  #3  
Old 01-29-2013
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Cheers! The gas in it is fresh-ish.. maybe a few weeks old.. which reminds me.. I need to remember to mark the oil level on the tank tomorrow while I'm fixing that carb leak..
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  #4  
Old 01-30-2013
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Have you looked at the How To's ?
If not, I can connect you with an excellent list.
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Old 01-30-2013
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OCR.. yup.. I'm all over the "how-to's" (here and other forums and internet resources as well). The repair manual has been an invaluable resource as well.. I was going to invest in a Clymer's manual, but I can't imagine it would be any better..

Admittedly, I do get lazy from time to time and will toss a question out for the "quick n' dirty" answer. ;-)
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2013
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Always helpful to do that!

BTB, where's the pics. It's a requirement of any project/ride tread.

No pics, didn't happen!
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  #7  
Old 01-30-2013
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I'll do pictures today, since it's actually above freezing today (and the g/f called out sick, so I have a photographer).. we've been in quite the cold snap as of late.. sub-zero temps. Supposed to hit 42F today and 49F tomorrow.. and, of course, I work tomorrow.. lol
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  #8  
Old 01-30-2013
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Just back from the local Polaris dealer... they don't carry part #3130236 in stock, so it'll be next week before I get the gasket issues tended to.. no biggie.. today is going to be a good day to pull the tank and empty it, pull the seat, tinker around a bit.

Any recommendations on good online dealers for fuel, oil and air/vacuum lines?


Edited to add:

Also, I measured the width of my belt.. obviously I'm going to pick up a spare at some point, but 1/16" difference in belt width (all the belts I've found for my sled say they are 1-3/8" wide, my belt is 1-5/16" wide) shouldn't be a huge deal, should it?
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  #9  
Old 01-30-2013
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Did someone ask for pictures? ;-)

Please ignore my trashed garage...
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  #10  
Old 01-30-2013
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Some useful links for you;

http://www.snowmobileforum.com/snowmobile-how-tos/

http://www.snowmobileforum.com/polar...ds-1985-a.html

http://www.alssnowmobile.com/

http://parts.polarisind.com/Browse/Browse.asp
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  #11  
Old 01-30-2013
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The only link I didn't have bookmarked was Al's.. cheers, and the first 12-pack is on me if you ever get this far north!
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Old 02-01-2013
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Back at work, so no fun for me until Sunday-ish...

But thanks to some online shopping, I have some float chamber gaskets, a new hood cable and a Craftsman compression gauge coming my way. I found I could source the plugs locally, so I'll pick those up on Monday.. I have "responsible adult" crap to tend to on Monday, so Tuesday looks like it'll be "irresponsible adult" day and I'll replace the gaskets, the hood cable and throw the new plugs on her.. run some superfresh gas and Seafoam through and see what happens... I bet she'll be a new beast. :-)
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  #13  
Old 02-01-2013
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Lucky me, I'm off till end of April!
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  #14  
Old 02-01-2013
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Lucky you, indeed..

I could take off work until April, but the bastards would stop sending a paycheck.. ;-)
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2013
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Back on topic..

Thanks to Winter Storm Nemo, my float chamber gaskets got put on hold for a few more days.. theoretically I'll get them tomorrow (Monday). Not gonna hold my breath, but there ya have it.

However, my new hood cable came in from the guy on eBay. the cable itself could have stood to be a couple more inches long, but I made it work... and because my compression gauge also came in last week, I hooked it up to each cylinder. I zip-tied the throttle wide open and got 131PSI on the clutch side, 132 PSI on the other. I'd say that will be fine.

I found a Trail Deluxe seat and backrest locally for a steal. I fixed the seat (yay duct tape!) and got all that mess installed. My woman and I kept getting on the sled and making sure we both fit (neither of us are small...) and while not *as* comfy as riding by myself, I'm not up in the handle bars either.

So tomorrow will be new plugs and fresh gas with some Seafoam. Hopefully my new gaskets will get here and I'll get those in as well... and with the fresh 14" we just got thanks to Nemo, there should be some gooooood damn sledding.

Cheers!
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Old 02-11-2013
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Okay, so this wasn't as complicated as I thought it would be..

Fast forward after some fresh Seafoam-laced gas, new plugs (8's) and squeaky-clean carbs...

Wow.

Just friggin wow.

This is the fastest sled I've ever been on. No more bogging, no smoke excessive smoking.. she purrs like a kitten and screams like a prom date. Total chubby.

Need to go grab a helmet so my g/f will let me take it out on the trails, which I will most likely be doing all day tomorrow.. especially considering there's is a beautiful fluffy snow falling softly to the ground...

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU all. Seriously.. if any of you guys (or gals) are in/around Houlton, let me know and I'll open the Pub with a warm crackling fire and beer is on me.
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Old 02-11-2013
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After a two hour test run with the woman on the back.. overall, not too bad. The sled wasn't thrilled about starting up hills with 450 pounds of people on it, but she did well.

I'd marked the oil level.. it's slowly dropping. That's good news.

The "bad" news is the slight "grinding" noise that I would hear/feel, especially on rapid acceleration... I'm thinking the chain needs to be tensioned a little more.. piece of cake.

Still happy. :-D


Edited to add:

Oh, and we bumped into the dudes who found the 2-up seat for me.. they invited us to go on the Poker Run this weekend with them. That should be fun.. a guided tour of local trails. :-D
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Old 02-12-2013
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I discovered the source of the grinding noise... chaincase driveshaft bearing was toast. As was the retaining ring and bushings.

I have all the replacement parts and have slowly started the unenviable task of trying to press the bearings onto the shaft.. slow, slow, slow going. I'm going to rig up something tomorrow that should make this process go a little faster... and I'm going to just hope that the bearings on the other side aren't toast... of course, they probably are. Guess we'll find out.

On the plus side, I don't think the engine in this thing has sounded this good in 20 years.. lol
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Old 02-13-2013
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Best to replace those as a set, that way you do not have to take it apart again to do the other bearing.
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Old 02-13-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainestratman View Post
I discovered the source of the grinding noise... chaincase driveshaft bearing was toast. As was the retaining ring and bushings.

I have all the replacement parts and have slowly started the unenviable task of trying to press the bearings onto the shaft.. slow, slow, slow going. I'm going to rig up something tomorrow that should make this process go a little faster... and I'm going to just hope that the bearings on the other side aren't toast... of course, they probably are. Guess we'll find out.

On the plus side, I don't think the engine in this thing has sounded this good in 20 years.. lol
If one or two are bad, it's honestly worth doing ALL of them at once. The 30 or so bucks you save now could cost you 500 in the future.
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  #21  
Old 02-13-2013
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Drive shaft bearing is not pressed on but the jack shaft bearing is. I usually run a grade 10 bolt all the way in and tap the shaft out of the bearing. To install I have just used a bolt with a large thick washer to pull the bearing onto the shaft.
I just completed a complete tear down to the tunnel, bulkhead and belly pan of a 89 Indy Classic before going through every nut, bolt and shaft in the machine. Probably have 60-80 hours in that one. Slipped a 133 1/2" track under it while I was doing it and replaced entire wiring harness with one from a XLT.
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  #22  
Old 02-15-2013
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It's been a couple of days, but I thought I'd update...

Long story short, I slipped on the ice in my driveway and wrecked my back while working on the sled... so a trip to the ER and scripts for narcotics and muscle relaxers later, I've spent the better part of the last 40 hours in bed. Fun.

But before that happened..

I managed to get the chaincase out.. what a colossal pain in the ass that was. I've checked over the other three bearings and they all seem to be just fine. I scrubbed out the lower bearing hole in the chaincase and has just retrieved the new bearing when I slipped and fell.

The way I figure it... there isn't all that much winter left, realistically-speaking. I'm going to replace the broken bearing and try to get the whole thing back together in the next week, so maybe I'll have another two or three good rides. Come spring/summer though, when there aren't freshly groomed trails taunting me, I'm going to tear everything down and fix/replace/clean it all. I might even buff out all the aluminum. :-)


Something I'm contemplating for the hood... a friend of mine is chomping at the bit to do some body painting for me, so I'm going to let him have at the hood.. repaint it in a nice blue color, prolly close to what it has, then decorate it with the classic Polaris logo... maybe.. I haven't decided yet. :-)
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Old 02-18-2013
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I don't want to post this picture and I really don't want to know the answer to this question but...

When my driveshaft bearing shit the bed and it tore up everything, it took out a good chunk of the aluminum of the chain case...

So.. my question, as much as I don't want to know the answer: is this enough metal to keep the retaining ring in place? I haven't been able to just pry it out, so that gives me hope.. on the other hand, I know that manufacturers will use the absolute minimum of everything they can in order to save on production costs..
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  #24  
Old 02-18-2013
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All that is really supposed to do is keep the bearing in place for assembly.
Once the shaft is in and the sprockets on and tightened, there should be no lateral pressure on that keeper at all.
I'd run it but keep an eye out for a new/replacement case.
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Old 02-18-2013
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I had one go like that, went and found another used case for $50 or $60.
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